As
soon as our coach reached the highway, the surroundings took charge of our minds as they
would do every day. The clouds and the rain created a different picture today.
Europe is known for uneven weather conditions. It is said, that while in
Europe, one must carry an umbrella as well as a winter jacket. A bright sunny
day is taken over by drizzling within no time and the chilly winds catch you
unaware. During winters, the drizzle may be followed by snowfall. Nevertheless,
the sight looked pretty. Sometimes the cottages and the grasslands would hide
behind the mist. Almost all the cottages had a designated place where small pieces
of wood from the trimmed trees were neatly stacked which would be used
during winter to run the fireplaces. I was searching for one, but the season
being summer, I could not find any cottage with a chimney giving out smoke. Nowadays,
most places in Europe have alternative methods to keep houses warm. Wood or
coal is still used for fireplaces, but in a smaller percentage due to various concerns related to pollution and global warming. The soft grass was wetting
itself in the drizzle, and the soaked breeze was teasing the wet flora. As the
coach climbed the Alps, we could see snow resting on the peaks as well as on both
sides of the road. We were engrossed in watching the magnificent view when we
realised that we had reached Engelberg, which welcomed us with the surprise of bright
sunshine but very cool winds too.
We were supposed to board a cable car from
Engelberg. In all, there were two such cable cars. The first was a routine one. The subsequent cable car is
one of its kind and is the world's first rotating cable car. As it started
moving, it began to rotate too, giving us a 360-degree view of the magnificent
snow-covered mountains. As the cable car moved up, the supporting pillars
behind us gradually became smaller, slowly getting blurred by the mist. It was
fascinating to watch people skiing gracefully, who looked like small colourful
dots sliding down the snow. Titlis is a mountain in the Alps. At around 10,000 feet
above sea level, it is the highest summit of the range. The last part of the cable
car leads above the glacier. The cable car took us to the highest point.
The area was quite spread out and had shops, restaurants, amenities, etc. It is
noteworthy that the point had uninterrupted and very efficient wi-fi
connectivity. As we came out of the complex, the chilly winds just took away
our breaths. It took some time for us to settle down. Fine snow particles
carried by the harsh wind hit our faces. Occasionally the visibility was zero due
to stormy conditions. Although we experienced the thrill of snow, we could not
go to ‘The Titlis Cliff Walk’, which was closed due to bad weather. The
northern side of the range is covered by the Titlis Glacier. Due to global warming, the glacier has receded dramatically in recent years, and is expected to disappear in about two decades. The summit of Titlis is
located above the snow line, thus it has a snowy climate round the year with
permanent snow cover and freezing temperatures. We could not spend a long time
in snow as the weather was getting bad. It was quite cosy inside and offered
some relief from the biting cold. While descending, we got down for a lunch
break at a place called Trubsee, an intermediate cable car station. It is actually a high-altitude lake, and is a hydroelectric reservoir providing water
to an underground power station. Trubsee cable car station was more widespread
than the one at the Titlis top and had a series of shopping outlets along with
the eateries. The quality and the extent of the facilities were praiseworthy.
It was sheer delight to have an Indian lunch
at Trubsee.
With bellies full and minds thrilled, we
boarded the coach. The curvy roads looked picturesque from a height. We were on
our way to Lucerne, a German-speaking city in central Switzerland. Located at the outfall of Lake Lucerne onto the river Reuss, Lucerne
is the most populous city in Central Switzerland, and a vital economic hub in the region. Lucerne is a centre of modern style tourism. After a
brief orientation tour through the city, we reached the lakeside to board a
cruise. The cruise ride was a calming experience. The turquoise waters appeared
pristine, which reflected the serenity of the snow-capped peaks of the majestic
Alps. Along the way, we glimpsed lakeside villages and charming cottages. One
of the landmarks was the Chapel Bridge, a wooden bridge with an
interesting history. The ride became more tranquil as the soft golden light of the evening soaked our minds along with the backdrops.
Every one of us was excited as soon as we
got off the cruise and headed for shopping. Apart from banks and insurance
companies, Switzerland is a renowned place for exclusive watches, equally
delicious chocolates, and high-class knives. The swanky watches were quite
luring, while the collections of knives were amazing. Almost all of us bought a
lot of chocolates. Some of us purchased watches too. It was fun and amusement
to window-shop multi-storied shops dedicated to chocolates. “We have one more
place to visit - The Lion Monument. It’s a sculpture.” announced our tour
manager as we gathered in a square of the market. I wondered what there could
be to explore in a sculpture of a Lion and followed him. But just like the Swiss
Miniatur, this one was also a surprise. The Lion Monument, or
the Lion of Lucerne, is a rock-cut relief, carved on living rock. It
was designed by Bertel Thorvaldsen and made by Lucas Ahorn in the
early 19th century. It honours the Swiss Guards who were massacred in the 18th century during the French Revolution, when revolutionaries stormed the Tuileries Palace in Paris. The dying lion is portrayed impaled by a spear. Beside him is a shield bearing the coat of arms of Switzerland. Like many other places in Europe, Lucerne
has also been a witness of religious conflicts and political revolutions. ‘The
Lion Monument’ and many such sculptures are an outcome of the overall impact of
the revolutions on the social set-up over a period. With complex
backgrounds, many monuments have always been hit by controversies. The Lion
Monument is not an exception. But if we ignore the political debates and
controversies, and explore the sole aspect of art, the monument is one of its
kind. The wrinkles on the forehead perfectly narrated the pain and grief. The
helplessness on the Lion’s face too appeared so real and touching. Like other
monuments in Italy, this one also showed the details just impeccably, giving an
account of the finesse of the artisan.
The drive to the hotel was like rewinding
and replaying the journey we did in the morning. Even then, it was different. Facades
of the evening had painted the route more gorgeously. It was a day of a
combination of art, history and nature. The Lion Monument once again compelled
me to wonder how artisans kept art alive amidst so many revolutions, bloodshed
and a period of socio-political unrest. Perhaps an intense passion for art
keeps them driven. On one hand, Titlis gave us a chilling thrill, and on the
other, Lucerne gifted us serenity, both once again endorsing the Persian verse
mentioned in my previous article.
(Affoltern am Albis- 28 Apr, 2024)
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