Europe: 7. Jungfraujoch and Interlaken

     Irrespective of the type, I have always found trains interesting. This one also reminded me of my childhood. I was watching a train moving on the railway track that was just adjacent to our hotel premises. It was fun to watch the train so closely. It added to our excitement as we were actually going to board a train that day - Jungfraujoch line, and that too, after a cable car ride. The coach ride was lovely once again. We enjoyed watching the magnificent landscapes as we would do every day. Colourful trains on the way looked pretty. At one point, our route was diverted due to ongoing road repair work. Even while the repair was in progress, the site was not unkempt. Blocks, barriers, tools, sand, chippings, etc. were neatly kept and did not affect the traffic adversely in any manner. The diversion was also very neatly planned, which took us through a small town, probably the countryside. Once again, I envied the people residing there for being able to stay in such a picturesque place. Quite unexpectedly, we came across a railway crossing barrier gate, which is very common in India. But, it was unmanned and operated automatically. The train was painted in dual tone - yellow and indigo, and needless to say, was beautiful. The discipline displayed by all in terms of the traffic was commendable. I wondered why such proficiency was not palpable in my home country. I was lost in thought when we arrived at Grindelwald terminal. We boarded the ‘Eiger Express’, the fastest and most modern attraction. It is a high-speed cable car. It took just 15 minutes for the cable car to take us from Grindelwald (3000 feet) to Eiger Glacier railway station, which was at 7000 feet. I was quite used to the neatness and cleanliness of Europe by then. Eiger Glacier railway station was as spick and span as other places would be. But when I looked at it keenly, I found the station quite swanky, almost like an airport lounge. It was learned that all the railway stations in Europe were equally classy. Our train was simple, but an elegant meter-gauge train. It was a ‘Cogwheel Railway’, specially designed to operate on steep grades. The trains are fitted with cogwheels that mesh with a toothed rack rail, which runs between the running rails. We were welcomed onboard by offering delicious chocolates. Barring a few minutes in the beginning, the entire ride was through a 7-kilometer-long tunnel. It was learned that the tunnel took 16 years to complete. In about 30 minutes we reached Jungfraujoch - Europe's highest railway station, which was at 11000 feet. As soon as we got off the train, we became a bit breathless, getting a hint of high altitude. The giddiness became very obvious as we reached the elevator area. We had scaled nearly 8000 feet in just more than an hour. The lack of acclimatisation showed its effects. Some of us took longer to recover. It was a great relief and a pleasant surprise to have a sumptuous Indian lunch on the top of a great glacier in the Alps. By the time we had our lunch, all of us had recovered from the high-altitude sickness. Once settled down, we took an elevator to the Sphinx station, an observatory deck from where we could see the lofty snow-covered peaks of the magnificent Alps. It was just white all over, yet looked beautiful. Zero visibility, harsh winds, and sub-zero temperatures were narrating the might of nature. Two black birds sitting on the fence of the deck were drawing the attention of all, perhaps telling us how they dared to fight mighty nature. The Ice Palace was a great amusement. Some of us said that the sculptures inside the Ice Palace were not solely made of ice and some other techniques were used. Overall, it was interesting. Jungfraujoch is the most favoured destination for skiers, which offers over 250 kilometers of perfect slopes, infrastructure, descents, snow parks, and a great opportunity for adventure sports. The area between Jungfraujoch railway station and the Sphinx observatory is called the ‘Top of Europe’ building, which includes several restaurants, shops, and a post office. Each one of us received a small booklet resembling a passport. There was a Jungfraujoch Passport Stamp machine just off the restaurant area for people to get a souvenir stamp. One could insert the dummy passport inside the stamp machine and get a stamp of the Jungfraujoch. It was fun. All of us were tired and needed refreshment. Although we knew that the coffee would be with less milk, we opted for it, thanks to the perfect weather. We returned to Grindelwald terminal by the same route. All along the way, I was wondering about the efforts Switzerland had made to preserve its beautiful vintage look even while implementing the most sophisticated technology. Every care was taken not to disturb the ecological balance while creating engineering marvels like cable cars, tunnels, roads, or the railway network. Uninterrupted wi-fi connectivity at the great heights of Jungfraujoch was laudable.

     As our coach moved through the small towns, our eyes once again got glued to the windows as they would do every day. Our excitement grew as our tour manager informed us that we were about to reach Interlaken (between lakes), yet another beautiful place. Interlaken is a Swiss district in the canton of Bern, and the main transport gateway to the mountains and lakes of the region. The town is a base from where travellers and backpackers begin their expeditions and explore the surrounding areas. The district has various companies providing guided services for skydiving, canyoning, hang gliding, paragliding, and skiing. We could see people gliding down and landing on a sprawling lush green ground which was just across the road. The walk-ways, roads, and footpaths were extraordinarily beautiful. Colourful flowers added to the beauty of the roads. We wondered how the beautiful planters were taken care of. Every corner was spick and span and contributed to the overall prettiness of the place. The place had hustle and bustle, yet it had a unique calmness. The shops were upper-class, but they still appeared humble. The overall manifestation was so elegant, still, it revealed serenity. We walked further to reach a spot near the Congress Centre. It was a popular tourist spot. For Indians, it was more so because of its relation to Hindi cinema. The late legendary Hindi cinema director Yash Chopra discovered Switzerland in 1970. The renowned film director was fascinated by the landscape around Interlaken and shot many of the scenes from his films there. The aura of the films had a great impact on the Indian audience as well as the Indian cinema industry. Since then, many directors have chosen Switzerland for shooting their films. This boosted Swiss tourism to a considerable extent. In 2011, the Swiss government honoured the late Yash Chopra with the title of Ambassador of Interlaken for presenting Switzerland's beauty to Indians through his films. In 2016, a bronze statue of the late Yash Chopra was installed as a tribute by the Switzerland government at the place where we had gathered. It was indeed an honour to see the acknowledgement of an Indian at such a faraway place.

     We boarded the coach, but with a heavy heart, as we were supposed to bid goodbye to beautiful Switzerland and proceed to Paris the next morning. Perhaps nature has gifted all its treasures to Switzerland. Switzerland has valued the treasures with all its might and made every effort to preserve even the most trivial aspect of the setting. Switzerland does deserve acclaim for its vision, will, zeal, and inclination. The Persian verse, which I mentioned previously justly speaks about the paradise status of Switzerland. Nature always gives us abundantly. However, it is entirely in our capacity to cherish, love, value, preserve, and conserve a beautiful gift.

(Affoltern am Albis- 29 Apr, 2024)

(cont.)

*****

Europe: 6. Chill, Serenity, and the amazing Lion

     As soon as our coach reached the highway, the surroundings took charge of our minds as they would do every day. The clouds and the rain created a different picture today. Europe is known for uneven weather conditions. It is said, that while in Europe, one must carry an umbrella as well as a winter jacket. A bright sunny day is taken over by drizzling within no time and the chilly winds catch you unaware. During winters, the drizzle may be followed by snowfall. Nevertheless, the sight looked pretty. Sometimes the cottages and the grasslands would hide behind the mist. Almost all the cottages had a designated place where small pieces of wood from the trimmed trees were neatly stacked which would be used during winter to run the fireplaces. I was searching for one, but the season being summer, I could not find any cottage with a chimney giving out smoke. Nowadays, most places in Europe have alternative methods to keep houses warm. Wood or coal is still used for fireplaces, but in a smaller percentage due to various concerns related to pollution and global warming. The soft grass was wetting itself in the drizzle, and the soaked breeze was teasing the wet flora. As the coach climbed the Alps, we could see snow resting on the peaks as well as on both sides of the road. We were engrossed in watching the magnificent view when we realised that we had reached Engelberg, which welcomed us with the surprise of bright sunshine but very cool winds too.

     We were supposed to board a cable car from Engelberg. In all, there were two such cable cars. The first was a routine one. The subsequent cable car is one of its kind and is the world's first rotating cable car. As it started moving, it began to rotate too, giving us a 360-degree view of the magnificent snow-covered mountains. As the cable car moved up, the supporting pillars behind us gradually became smaller, slowly getting blurred by the mist. It was fascinating to watch people skiing gracefully, who looked like small colourful dots sliding down the snow. Titlis is a mountain in the Alps. At around 10,000 feet above sea level, it is the highest summit of the range. The last part of the cable car leads above the glacier. The cable car took us to the highest point. The area was quite spread out and had shops, restaurants, amenities, etc. It is noteworthy that the point had uninterrupted and very efficient wi-fi connectivity. As we came out of the complex, the chilly winds just took away our breaths. It took some time for us to settle down. Fine snow particles carried by the harsh wind hit our faces. Occasionally the visibility was zero due to stormy conditions. Although we experienced the thrill of snow, we could not go to ‘The Titlis Cliff Walk’, which was closed due to bad weather. The northern side of the range is covered by the Titlis Glacier. Due to global warming, the glacier has receded dramatically in recent years, and is expected to disappear in about two decades. The summit of Titlis is located above the snow line, thus it has a snowy climate round the year with permanent snow cover and freezing temperatures. We could not spend a long time in snow as the weather was getting bad. It was quite cosy inside and offered some relief from the biting cold. While descending, we got down for a lunch break at a place called Trubsee, an intermediate cable car station. It is actually a high-altitude lake, and is a hydroelectric reservoir providing water to an underground power station. Trubsee cable car station was more widespread than the one at the Titlis top and had a series of shopping outlets along with the eateries. The quality and the extent of the facilities were praiseworthy. It was sheer delight to have an Indian lunch at Trubsee.

     With bellies full and minds thrilled, we boarded the coach. The curvy roads looked picturesque from a height. We were on our way to Lucerne, a German-speaking city in central Switzerland. Located at the outfall of Lake Lucerne onto the river Reuss, Lucerne is the most populous city in Central Switzerland, and a vital economic hub in the region. Lucerne is a centre of modern style tourism. After a brief orientation tour through the city, we reached the lakeside to board a cruise. The cruise ride was a calming experience. The turquoise waters appeared pristine, which reflected the serenity of the snow-capped peaks of the majestic Alps. Along the way, we glimpsed lakeside villages and charming cottages. One of the landmarks was the Chapel Bridge, a wooden bridge with an interesting history. The ride became more tranquil as the soft golden light of the evening soaked our minds along with the backdrops.

     Every one of us was excited as soon as we got off the cruise and headed for shopping. Apart from banks and insurance companies, Switzerland is a renowned place for exclusive watches, equally delicious chocolates, and high-class knives. The swanky watches were quite luring, while the collections of knives were amazing. Almost all of us bought a lot of chocolates. Some of us purchased watches too. It was fun and amusement to window-shop multi-storied shops dedicated to chocolates. “We have one more place to visit - The Lion Monument. It’s a sculpture.” announced our tour manager as we gathered in a square of the market. I wondered what there could be to explore in a sculpture of a Lion and followed him. But just like the Swiss Miniatur, this one was also a surprise. The Lion Monument, or the Lion of Lucerne, is a rock-cut relief, carved on living rock. It was designed by Bertel Thorvaldsen and made by Lucas Ahorn in the early 19th century. It honours the Swiss Guards who were massacred in the 18th century during the French Revolution, when revolutionaries stormed the Tuileries Palace in Paris. The dying lion is portrayed impaled by a spear. Beside him is a shield bearing the coat of arms of Switzerland. Like many other places in Europe, Lucerne has also been a witness of religious conflicts and political revolutions. ‘The Lion Monument’ and many such sculptures are an outcome of the overall impact of the revolutions on the social set-up over a period. With complex backgrounds, many monuments have always been hit by controversies. The Lion Monument is not an exception. But if we ignore the political debates and controversies, and explore the sole aspect of art, the monument is one of its kind. The wrinkles on the forehead perfectly narrated the pain and grief. The helplessness on the Lion’s face too appeared so real and touching. Like other monuments in Italy, this one also showed the details just impeccably, giving an account of the finesse of the artisan.

     The drive to the hotel was like rewinding and replaying the journey we did in the morning. Even then, it was different. Facades of the evening had painted the route more gorgeously. It was a day of a combination of art, history and nature. The Lion Monument once again compelled me to wonder how artisans kept art alive amidst so many revolutions, bloodshed and a period of socio-political unrest. Perhaps an intense passion for art keeps them driven. On one hand, Titlis gave us a chilling thrill, and on the other, Lucerne gifted us serenity, both once again endorsing the Persian verse mentioned in my previous article.

(Affoltern am Albis- 28 Apr, 2024)

(cont.)

*****

Europe: 5. If there is a Paradise on Earth …

     All of us were happy, but feeling sad too. Sad, because we were bidding adieu to the fascinating and nostalgic vibes of Italy; and happy, as we were finally heading towards the place most of us dream about- Switzerland. Switzerland (German: Schweiz) involves diverse landscapes. The Swiss Alps host many glaciers, from which originate several major rivers, which ultimately drain to form lakes. Switzerland has more than 1500 lakes, predominantly glacial in nature. We had been in Europe just for four days, but every one of us by then was quite used to the beautiful surroundings, and hungrily searching for more prettiness. Although the backgrounds were as pretty as every day, the magnificent lakes made our journey a different experience. The expanse of the calm waters narrated tranquillity. The long tunnels again welcomed and amazed us with their vast dimensions and equally meticulous settings. The ride became interesting when the coach touched the curvy roads of the mountains. Intermittent drizzling was a bonus. We could now see the farms and the cottages more clearly as we passed through small towns, probably the countryside. Sprawling and lush green farm, cattle engrossed in grazing, a decent cottage in the centre, children playing in the yard - what more could one wish for! As our eyes got glued to the windows, the serenity could be perceived even from a distance.

     “We have almost reached Swiss Miniatur, it’s a miniature park”, our tour manager announced as our coach passed by Lake Lugano. “Are we here to see something called miniature?”, some of us reacted with a bit of dissatisfaction. We followed the tour manager and what we saw was just beyond my capacity to express it. Swiss Miniatur is Switzerland’s largest open-air miniature museum, located in Melide, on the shores of Lake Lugano. The park is surrounded by majestic mountains and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. ‘Can any miniature park be so amazing?’ was my obvious reaction, with an awestruck face. Over 130 models of aristocratic houses, churches, castles, monuments, offices, and other interesting buildings in Switzerland can be viewed on a smaller scale, on an area of ​​more than 13,500 square meters. A network of nearly 3.5 kilometers of miniature railway wends its way through the park with 18 trains running on tracks, crossing bridges, and stopping at stations. Boats ply the lakes, cable cars climb and descend mountains, and cars run along the motorways. Surrounded by 15,000 types of flowers and over 1,500 trees, Switzerland can be explored in fast motion. Every little thing looked so real. It was raining all the while, but we explored the area with umbrellas open. The amusement in our hungry eyes and the excitement on our faces could be compared with the one seen among children. Just that we could not yell with ecstasy, as the children around were doing. It was like reliving one’s childhood. We thanked our tour manager for the lovely miniature treat as he took us for a continental lunch which was arranged at a restaurant inside the premises of Swiss Miniatur. Along with the amusement, I noticed an interesting but funny thing in the park. Many coins were seen at the bottom of a miniature canal. Europeans seemed really crazy about throwing coins and making a wish.

     As per the itinerary, we were supposed to spend some time at Lake Lugano and then proceed to our hotel. But we still had some extra time on our hands. Our tour manager suggested a place if all of us agreed. Our hungry minds did not hesitate at all, and we decided to go for it. Negotiating twists and turns, through picturesque countryside, we finally reached a place called Liechtenstein. We boarded an electric tram which was a replica of a train. As the tram started moving, a commentary in the background began to narrate the history and other details of the place. Situated in the Rhine valley, surrounded by mountains, it is Europe's fourth-smallest country, with an area of just over 150 square kilometers and a population of around 40000. Houses or offices, every structure looked so appealing, neat, and delightful. Tiny lanes, beautiful flowers, neatly mowed lawns gave a charming look to the city. The smallest planter was so well-kept. Although equipped with all the modern facilities, the vintage set-up of the houses was preserved. While embracing modernity, enough pains were taken to preserve the cultural heritage. Peculiar designs of windows, venetian blinds, and unique colours were captivating. Although colourful, the settings were sober, soothing yet elegant. The entire place seemed classy, but even then appeared humble. Each corner, every setting was so precisely done, that at one point of time I felt as if I was passing through a model toy town meant for a leisure tour. I was amazed to see such grace and elegance. I tried so hard, but could not stop myself envying the people of Switzerland for being able to stay in such a heavenly place. We finally gathered at a square in Vaduz, the capital of Liechtenstein. It was tough to choose whether to drink the beauty hungrily or capture it on my camera. I finally decided to just watch and stock the grandeur in my memories.

     People who have visited Switzerland along with other countries state that there is no place as beautiful as Switzerland. Nature probably bestows its entire benevolence on such beautiful places. Geography plays a major role indeed, but human efforts are also crucial in conserving the beautiful gift of nature. Along with the sincere efforts to keep the emissions at the lowest, the dedication to maintain all kinds of connectivity, means of transport, public utility amenities, and cleanliness was outstanding. Every little structure was preserved, even a small planter. Each setting was looked after with great amiability, almost being cherished. I have read countless mentions of Switzerland, both short and long. Every such write-up appeared as a dream, sometimes even a fairy-tale. Almost every one among my acquaintances who visited there was of the opinion that the place could be described neither in words nor by means of any artwork. I had to believe them, when I visited there myself. Amazed by the beauty, I was completely absorbed by the exquisiteness of Switzerland. As we boarded our coach for the onward journey, all of us were filled with admiration and a great sense of satisfaction, and were speechless. The memories of the day which had begun to flock to my mind reminded me of a famous Persian verse, supposedly written by Ameer Khusrau.

गर फ़िर्दौस बर रूए ज़मीं अस्त,

हमीं अस्तो, हमीं अस्तो, हमीं अस्त.

If there is a paradise on earth,

It is this, and it is this, and it is this.

Danke Schweiz (Thanks Switzerland)!

(Affoltern am Albis- 27 Apr, 2024)

(cont.)

*****

Europe: 4. Venice- Romance and Music

     As the bright sunshine greeted us, we bid goodbye to Florence, which had mesmerised every one of us with sheer beauty and nostalgia. The roads, surroundings, and beautiful cars once again began to fill our minds with their magnificence. We crossed a number of tunnels, some short, some of them very long. The maintenance of the tunnels was thorough. Picturesque surroundings did not let us feel tired even as we travelled for nearly four hours. We had our lunch in an Indian restaurant in Mestre, a beautiful place on our way. Post lunch we reached Tronchetto, from where we boarded a ‘Vaporetto’, a steamer boat (water bus). We could see major settings during the half-an-hour ride, which took us to Venice island. Venice is built on more than 120 islands, separated by water canals. Portions of the city are linked by nearly 400 bridges. A city of canals and bridges, Venice is a part of the metropolitan area, which includes other cities too. A major centre of commerce during and after the Renaissance, Venice is also called queen of the Adriatic Sea. But the water canals and lagoons of Venice are under constant threat of floods due to their peculiar ecology.

     As we stepped out of the Vaporetto, Venezia (Venice) gave us a graceful welcome. The hustle and bustle of the place gave it the look of a fair. Out of the small and large shops, the most striking were those of masks worn during the Carnival of Venice. We crossed a few bridges and reached the ‘Bridge of Sighs’. It’s a corridor which links the ‘Doge’s Palace’ to the ‘New Prison’. Built in the Venetian style, the Doge’s Palace was the residence of ‘Doge’, the head of the former republic of Venice. During the initial phase, there were holding cells within the palace, but later more prisons were created, collectively called New Prison. During that era, the Bridge of Sighs used to be the last sight of Venice for the convicts before commencement of their imprisonment. The Bridge of Sighs has been featured in many movies as well as song albums. The bridge has many fascinating anecdotes to it too. Inspired by the interesting background and the architecture, a number of imitations of the Doge’s Palace and the Bridge of Sighs were made all over the world, including Oxford and Cambridge. Going further, after crossing a couple of more bridges, we took a right turn, came St. Mark square. It is the principal public square, dominated by St. Mark Basilica, Column of the Lion of Venice, Column of Theodore, and Bell tower. St. Mark Basilica is the former political and religious centre of the Republic of Venice, and is attached to the Doge’s Palace. Although the architecture is Italian, it is different from the Roman style. While the arches display a Roman impact, the domes tell about Islamic influence. Together they make a beautiful combination called the Venetian (Gothic) style. The bell tower (St. Mark’s Campanile) stands out majestically. Just like the Bridge of Sighs, the Campanile also inspired the designs of various towers worldwide. The columns are again a marvellous piece of art. Going further ahead, we saw a long arcade lined by shops and restaurants at ground level, with offices above. Each restaurant had laid tables in the designated open space and each one had its own small live band- a violin, a piano, a saxophone, a clarinet, and a cello; wow, enough to hold me. I have been intermittently listening to Jazz or Western classical music since class 12 and like it. I could listen to three bands, each one playing a different piece, and all were equally mellow. A couple of pieces sounded familiar. Although I did not know the details of the composition or the composer, I got completely absorbed by the soothing melody. Apart from being known for beautiful architectural settings, Venice has been an eminent place for instrumental music for a long time. Known for operatic music, Venice is the birthplace of many great composers like Vivaldi.

     Having witnessed architecture and music, it was now time to explore the Romanza di Venezia (Romance of Venice). Venice still maintains the traditional set-up of the Gondola- elegant body painted in shimmering black, golden artwork, rich upholstery, and the iconic metal hood! Gondolas have been a favourite worldwide, and can be seen in umpteen movies, songs, and many other art forms. Our Gondolier helped us board the Gondola. We were already inside a narrow lane when we heard someone singing a song. It was the Gondolier who was following us, singing a Venetian song to the people seated in his Gondola. The Gondolier continued his singing, which made our ride livelier. All along the way, we saw shops and homes on both sides, all of them reflecting beautiful Venetian patterns of doors, windows, and colours. People sat and relaxed in their homes, some of them gladly waving at us. The skill of the Gondolier was evident when he promptly bent to negotiate some of the bridges we crossed, which were at much less height than others. The entire ride was calm. The waters were peaceful. The quietness was peculiar and tranquil; the only sound played was that of the splashing of water created by the oar.

     Again, the constraint of time upset me. There was so much to see inside the Doge’s Palace and St. Mark Basilica, but could not be explored. However, I managed to have a glimpse of some of the narrow lanes, lined by small outlets, reminding me of the lively markets of Chaandni Chowk, Ameena Baagh, and Chaar Meenaar. Various glassware shops displayed beautifully made Venetian glass products, for which Venice is eminent. Our tour manager took us to a shop for the much-awaited topping of the day. Every evening he used to take us promptly to a unique eating outlet and offer coffee or delicious toppings. Today, it was ‘Italian Gelato ice cream’, and was a delight, especially after a mesmerising Gondola ride.

     As we boarded our coach, I took my pen and notebook to scribble down the memories of the day. It was a day with diverse affairs. Doge’s Palace and the Bridge of Sighs narrated a fascinating history, St. Mark Basilica displayed majestic architecture, the bands took me on an opulent tour of music, and the Gondola ride was a serene finale.

(Padua- 26 Apr, 2024)

(cont.)

*****

• La Pieta

Your gentle feet and tiny toes,

Comforted my lap once upon a time,

My arms stroked you blissfully then,

For you, I hummed a calming rhyme,

But now my arms hold a muted song,

Of your silence, bestowed on me by time,

Today, you lie on the same old lap,

Indeed, lifeless and inert, yet so sublime. 1

I will keep on recalling you as a toddler,

Henceforth, they will look at you as a leader,

Your cries were calmed by my caress then,

For them, now you are going to be the healer,

You rehearsed whatever I voiced, said, sang,

They will find knowledge in you, a teacher,

Today, while I weep, detached from my soul,

They will find peace, blessed by a preacher. 2

You were composed, unmoved by the ordeal,

But so much concerned about my well-being,

You knew who all sinned against you,

Still, you said to adapt the art of forgiving,

You were spreading the message of kindness,

Even when your disciples kept on betraying,

Hated; yet you insisted on spreading love,

Regretted, Peter shall forever be weeping. 3

When you were not even born,

Did you deserve to face hatred,

For spreading the message of kindness,

Did you deserve to get hurt or wounded,

Was such ferocity justly indispensable,

To grasp the essence of being kind-hearted,

Was your sacrifice truly obligatory,

To realise that love was supreme, sacred. 4

(Rome- 24 Apr, 2024)

(The ‘Madonna della Pieta’, informally known as ‘La Pieta’ is a marble sculpture by Michelangelo. A masterpiece, ‘La Pieta’ is kept in St. Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City.)

*****