• दशानन

लालच ने निष्प्रभ कर दी, तुम्हारी निःसीम उपासना,

ऐश्वर्य की शैय्या पर भी अस्वस्थ, अधिक की निरंतर वासना,

अमर्याद सत्ता का निष्णात शासक, किंतु सामर्थ्य की संतत याचना,

स्वर्ण को भी निस्तेज कर गई, अत्यधिक भौतिकवाद की कामना। १

तुम भक्त थे किंतु, तुम्हारे अहंकार से भक्त की प्रतिमा हुई दीन,

तुम्हारे ज्ञान, बोध, शास्त्र, कला, आज भी मूर्खता के ही हैं अधीन,

आज भी तुम्हारे बल, अबोध व निष्पाप की प्रताड़ना में हैं लीन,

व्यर्थ बहुआयामी व्यक्तित्व तुम्हारा, व्यस्त जो समाजहनन में हीन। २

शाप जो दिये गए थे तुम्हें, आज सिद्ध हो चुके हैं प्रभावहीन,

तुम्हारे दुष्कृत्यों से स्तब्ध हैं, परिभाषा व जीव हर शालीन,

तुम्हारे अनिर्बंध वर्तन की जयजयकार, हो गई है रीति नवीन,

अप्रचलित हो चुके हैं अब, सुनीति, सदाचार व सत्कर्म प्राचीन। ३

नाभीभेद से हुआ तुम्हारा अंत, ढकोसला ही सिद्ध हुआ अंत में,

अनीति पर नीति का विजय, प्रहसन सा प्रतीत होता आख्यानों में,

तुम्हारे कुकर्म रिसते रिसते, स्थायी बन चुके हैं कुंठित समाज में,

पुनः पुनः जन्म ले कर तुम, जीवन भरते आए हो विषवृक्ष में। ४

कल तक रंभा थी, आज कोई और है पीड़िता,

तुम्हारे पश्चात भी, अत्याचार किंतु नहीं मिटता,

विलाप व रुदन का आलेख, अविरत आया है चढ़ता,

तुम्हारी मृत्यु छल, तुम्हारे श्वास हैं शाश्वत संभवता। ५

निर्भया, हाथरस, कठुआ, तुम ही प्रत्येक घटना के सूत्रधार,

तुम्हारे एकाधिकार के समक्ष, धूल चाटता नाभिभेद का चमत्कार,

उपहास बन गया है न्याय का अनुरोध, सर्वत्र अन्याय व हाहाकार,

जाने कितनी करनी होगी प्रतीक्षा, तुम्हारे अंत से करने साक्षात्कार। ६

■ विजयादशमी

*****

• बेगानी शादी में

मूक हो गए निर्धनता के रुदन और सिसकियाँ,

सत्ता और सामर्थ्य के लज्जाहीन कोलाहल में,

समाज अनभिज्ञ तृष्णा व क्षुधा की छटपटाहट से,

जो अंधा हुआ विज्ञापन की चटकीली जगमगाहट में,

पुनः खो गया अस्तित्व, चौखट पर खड़ी याचना का,

मासूमियत के अवशेषों से निर्मित उन्मादभवन में,

मानवता हुई लज्जित, संवेदना हुई शून्य,

निर्लज्जता हुई निर्बंध, बेगानी शादी में। १

दहशत से पीड़ित अधमरे लोकतंत्र को,

पुनः एक बार रौंदा और कुचला गया,

बहुमूल्य लोकमत जड़ा उधार का सिंहासन,

पुनः कौड़ियों के दाम नीलाम हो गया,

स्वघोषित नृप ने स्वयम् समेत,

सार्वभौम का भी समझौता कर दिया,

अनिश्चितता के बवंडर में हचकोले खाता प्रजातंत्र,

अराजकता की भयावह आहट ले आया। २

क़दमों तले पिस गया अनाज, दमकते महल में,

किंतु जठर क्षुधित ही रहा, कुपोषित शिशु का,

थालियाँ सज गईं, स्निग्ध, रसीली, मीठी,

आज भी वंचित ही रहा, भूखा उदर अनाथ का,

छीने हुए पैबंद ओढ़कर, डोल रहा मदमत्त लुटेरा,

असहाय नग्नता ओढ़ती, वस्त्र घृणा व उपहास का,

मृत है संवेदना, बधिर हैं भावनाएँ,

कर रही हैं बीभत्स प्रदर्शन, उन्माद व अहंकार का। ३

याचना को स्वयम् करनी होगी तृष्णा की शांति,

धधकाकर क्रोधाग्नि समाज के अंतर का,

लाचार को तपना होगा दावानल में,

करने धारण तेज, सामर्थ्य क्रांतिसूर्य का,

प्रजा को अब करना ही होगा शंखनाद,

करने उत्पाटन उन्मत्त नृप की निरंकुश सत्ता का,

उखाड़ना होगा कलंकित सिंहासन अभिमानी,

देखने उदय न्याय, मानवता व लोकतंत्र का। ४

*****

Europe: 10. ‘Tower’ing Adieu

    We were still lost in the lingering memories of Disneyland, which had rejuvenated one and all. The memories will stay with everyone for a very long time. It was not only a tour of childhood, but a beautiful experience, reviving our minds which had gone a bit dull in the hustle and bustle of professional and personal commitments. Our revitalised looks were apparent as we boarded our coach for a city tour of Paris. The traffic was moving slowly. The number of visitors seemed more, like the previous day. The traffic was diverted in many places as Paris was preparing itself for the Olympics. Some locations were barricaded, and we had to be satisfied by only glimpses. The stairs leading to the front gallery of the National Assembly were decked with colourful dummies of athletes. Makeshift stadiums were being erected in suitable open areas. The entire city was getting a festive look for the grand sporting event. The Arc de Triomphe posed elegantly. It looked as splendid during the day, as it looked in the sober shimmer during the night. The streets which we saw at night looked equally beautiful in the bright sun. We could see the iconic tower from a distance as the coach moved towards Champ de Mars park. We got down from the coach in the parking and walked towards the Pont Alexandre bridge. A lady on the bridge was taking pictures of various tourists and printing them on a dummy front page of a retro newspaper. She did not charge any price for that and told us we could pay any amount we wished to. Many of us got our pictures in black & white and paid happily. It was fun and a lovely souvenir. We walked down the bridge and crossed the Place de la Concorde square. The amazing giant won our hearts right at the introductory glimpse. The Eiffel Tower stood grand and greeted us graciously. The Eiffel Tower is a wrought-iron structure in the Champ de Mars park area. It is named after the engineer Gustave Eiffel, whose company designed and built the tower in 1889. It is a freestanding vertical framework tower. It’s a construction technique which is widely used in making electric transmission towers, radio towers or observation towers. The technique helps in building a stronger structure, at a much lower weight, with more wind resistance than that of a tower of solid construction. It is nicknamed ‘La dame de Fer’ (French: Iron Lady). It was constructed as the centrepiece of the 1889 World’s Fair, and to crown the centennial anniversary of the French Revolution. The tower is 330 meters tall, as high as an 81-storey building, and is the tallest structure in Paris. The tower has three levels for visitors, with restaurants and amenities on the first and second levels. The top level is the highest observation deck accessible to the community in the European Union. Although there is a staircase, most visitors use a lift to reach various levels. The top level has a radio broadcasting aerial and an apartment built for Gustave Eiffel’s private use.

    There was a deluge of visitors. The queue was very long and tested our patience. It started raining, and we faced strong and chilly winds, making us feel the wait even longer. But the long wait gave me a chance to study the tower. The design was majestic, and the resources seemed to be of very high standards. Be it a hand-railing of a staircase or a large bolt of a beam of the tower, each component was of a very high caliber. In this tour so far, I observed that there was no compromise anywhere in terms of quality, standards or safety. All the structures and the edifices appeared technically sound, irrespective of the era in which they were built. The zeal, the passion and the hard work were noticeable and commendable. The tower was an engineering marvel, born out of a genius’s mind. A gush of cool wind welcomed us as we stepped out of the lift and reached the gallery on the first level. The queue for the lift to reach the second level was long again. I decided to stay at the first level and enjoy the sights of gorgeous Paris. The neatness was obvious, and the green cover appeared ample. The makeshift stadium which we saw from the coach looked graceful. The Trocadero platform looked calm, from where we had viewed the glittering Eiffel two nights ago. The panoramic view of Paris was simply majestic and spoke volumes about the prosperity of the place. The level had all the amenities, with uninterrupted wi-fi and the cleanliness was extraordinary. The Eiffel Tower faced controversy during the initial period. It was criticised by some of France’s leading artists and intellectuals for its design, who did not believe it was feasible and objected on artistic grounds. However, it soon became a global cultural icon of France and one of the most recognisable structures in the world. The Eiffel Tower is the most visited monument with an entrance fee in the world and receives visitors in huge numbers every year.

    Post lunch, we boarded a cruise on the river Seine for an orientation tour of Paris. The cruise glided under the bridges of Paris and gave a breathtaking view of a succession of beautiful monuments along the waterway as we listened to commentary about Paris. The lady commentator spoke in English, Spanish and French, providing live commentary about Paris and its history, monuments, and architecture.

    The cruise ride marked the end of our tour. We were going to board a flight to our home country the next morning. As we bid adieu to Europe, all of us had mixed feelings. On one hand, we were immersed in the exquisiteness of Europe, but on the other, we felt sad about departing with the group members, who had become almost a family. Europe has gifted us lovely memories which will stay with us for life. While I enjoyed viewing magnificent places, I also felt a striking absence of many virtues in my home country, which were predominant in Europe almost like a culture. Every city we visited showed the highest regard for human life and a deep concern for children. The neatness was palpable everywhere, and the traffic was exceptionally disciplined. The cleanliness was praiseworthy. The infrastructure was of an outstanding technical grade and was user-friendly too. There were no banners, placards, posters or any kind of audiovisual display exhibiting religious, political or social matters. Billboards were almost non-existent. We did not see pushing and shoving anywhere. Even the most packed places showed quietness and tranquillity. Many prominent edifices were beautified, but did not pose gaudy. There was no lack of glitter, yet it never appeared ostentatious. I believe the progress, the prosperity and the serenity Europe or similar places demonstrate can only be attained by following a path of honesty, hard work and commitment. I wish to see more of Europe in the future.

Adios Europe, until we meet again!

(Roissy-en-France- 02 May, 2024)

*****

Europe: 9. Disneyland - A tour of childhood

    The excitement was easily read on our faces. In spite of staying up quite late the previous night, we forgot about the exhaustion. Even before reaching the actual place, the magic of Disneyland had already taken charge of our minds. So much so, that we forgot to enjoy the surroundings, and got busy making plans of the rides we would go for and the shows we would try not to miss. Located about 30 kilometers from Paris city, Disneyland Paris is an entertainment resort. It has a golf course, two parks, two convention centres, hotels, restaurants, shops, departmental stores and dining centres spread over more than 5000 acres of land. The resort is operated by a division of The Walt Disney Company. Disneyland Paris is Europe’s most-visited tourist destination and the largest single-site employer in France with nearly 17,000 employees. Disneyland Park opened with the resort in 1992 and is based on a scale larger than the original Disneyland in California and the Magic Kingdom in Florida.

    Right from the entry gate, every setting was such as to attract the attention of the children unmistakably. Each signpost, each hoarding was colourful and striking, bearing charming pictures of popular Disney characters. As soon as we entered the resort, a beautiful garden welcomed us, which was full of a variety of lovely flowers. The tulips were familiar, but other flowers were new to us. The fountains were refreshing. As the tiny tots began to gather, the music of their chit-chat filled the atmosphere with glee. It was a great delight to see so many children in colourful attires and fancy headgear, who were all engrossed in the existing moment. Our first ride was ‘It’s a Small World’. We were specifically urged not to miss the ride. It is an old mill boat ride and is a part of the ‘Fantasyland’ area in the park. The ride features over 300 dolls, which operate through a robotic animation technique. The dolls in traditional costumes from cultures around the world perform in a spirit of international unity. I was completely immersed in the delightful show. The mesmerising ride made no mistake in taking me back to my childhood days. At one point in time, I also thought of making a loud cheer as the surrounding children did. The tiny tots watching the fascinating show were so fortunate to enjoy things at the right age. The entire show seemed like the outcome of a brilliant mind, an in-depth study of children’s psychology, and revealed an amazing sense of art. A complex theme of international solidarity was explained to tender minds in a beautiful and entertaining manner. The title track which played in the background was ‘It's a Small World’, a popular song by the Sherman Brothers, and had a theme of global peace. ‘It's a Small World’ is perhaps the most publicly performed song of all time.

    Being a holiday, the park had a lot of visitors. School children could be seen in their sports uniforms who had come to the park on a vacation. We had to wait for an exceptionally long time to get entry to any ride. We missed ‘The Lion King’ show as we were still in the queue when the show began. We switched rides, but could not avoid long queues. We finally managed to watch the ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’ ride. It was again a kind of mill boat ride. All the sets in the series were beautifully created. The characters looked so factual. I wished I could shake hands with them. The scenes were exactly recreated along with the background score. It was almost like watching a 4-D movie. The scary scenes seemed impressively real, so much so that children could be heard screaming. On a couple of occasions, the speed of the boat increased unexpectedly and gave the feel of an adventure ride. It was sheer joy to watch Johnny Depp, mischievously waving at us, enjoying his wine, sitting atop the looted treasure which was seen spread all around him. Believe it or not, but, Johnny Depp looked so actual. Kudos to the artists and the technique!

    Due to the long queues, we decided to watch the road shows, a kind of parade which operates continuously on the streets inside the park. The shows take guests on a journey through time to discover the stories of Disney Animation and Pixar - from timeless classics to the most recent hits. We saw two such delightful shows featuring Mickey, Minnie, Goofy, Donald, Timon, Joy, Mirabel, Miguel and a host of Disney and Pixar characters. Over 50 characters, wearing lovely costumes, singing, dancing and bursting with popular songs and stories, perform on the streets and entertain the audience. The characters mingled with the children around and played with them. The children were undoubtedly happy as anticipated. However, the happiness and the contentment of the parents were also conspicuous. Children were eager to have a glimpse of the popular characters who were waiting at various locations. They were actually artists, dressed like the characters. There were long queues of girls to click a photograph posing with the popular fairy-tale characters. The cute little girls waiting for their turn were also dressed in fairy-tale costumes or beautiful frocks and robes. The boys were busy clicking photographs, posing with Aladdin characters. Many of us tried adventure rides and were thrilled. Indiana Jones was one such ride, scaring the hell out of everyone. The screams said it all.

    The clock was ticking slowly to the moment everyone was waiting for - Disney Stars on Parade. We reached Main Street a bit early to secure a suitable place to sit and view the parade. But people had already begun to gather at the location. Soon both sides of the road were packed with the audience. Children were given the front rows to have an unobstructed view. Unaware of the parade, some tiny tots were playing on the street. The volunteers were busy insisting the parents take care of the children and clearing the way. We could feebly hear the music and the beats. The parade had begun. The cheering got louder as the music got clearer. The magic filled the air as the parade reached our location and the floats made their enchanting appearance. Various Disney characters wearing dazzling costumes were seen on their colourful floats against a backdrop of enthralling music. It was all about the thrill, fun, joy and amusement. The excitement in the atmosphere was palpable. The delight on everyone’s faces clearly exhibited the bliss and the exhilaration. The show reminded me of my school days when I watched the Mickey and Donald shows on the television on Sundays. I have not seen all the Disney movies. I was not familiar with many characters either. However, the show enthralled me with its charm and enthused the child hidden within me. The ecstasy on the faces of children was unique and could not be described. One has to actually be there to experience the magic.

    I had only read and heard about the thrill of Disneyland till I visited there. After reading about it, I figured out Disneyland to be merely a children’s amusement park. However, I was overwhelmed when I visited the place myself. There were no such parks or rides during my childhood. I have visited some such amusement parks in India and watched many animations made for children too, but none could engage me so much. Every little setting was planned from the children’s point of view. The design of the park was entirely dedicated to entertaining children. Even the pizza we had for lunch was Mickey-shaped. It was a pleasure to see a massive setup exclusively created for children. The efforts made solely for the children were praiseworthy. It clearly showed the commitment towards bringing up the new generation in a healthy way.

    Every one of us was thrilled and contented. Almost all of us relived our childhood for a day. The highlights of the day began to gather in my mind. A moment once gone never returns. The arms of the timepiece cannot turn rearward. Nonetheless, I can urge the clock to keep reminding me of the reminiscences of my childhood. I sincerely wish the fond memories to stay with me and keep the child within me dynamic.

Sing a cradle song, tranquil,

Fill me with sweetness soothing,

Stroke my locks with fondness,

Like a morning breeze of spring,

Feel the tap of my tiny toes,

While I roll on the lawn, hopping,

Help me make each moment of my childhood,

Joyous and fulfilling.

(Roissy-en-France- 01 May, 2024)

(cont.)

*****

Europe: 8. An evening in Paris

     As I said earlier, we bid goodbye to Switzerland with a heavy heart. Yet another pretty train passed by the hotel and brought a smile on my face. Had there been a Trevi fountain in Switzerland, I would have certainly thrown a coin and made a sincere wish to visit Switzerland one more time. The place had mesmerised almost every one of us by a beauty which was beyond anyone’s capacity to express in any way. I stayed in the mountains for a long time when I was serving in the Indian Army. Apart from the places of postings, I have also visited some of the beautiful mountain ranges in India. But none can match the gorgeousness of the Swiss Alps. From the freshness of the grass to the brilliance of the pristine waters, every aspect seemed exquisite. The geography is quite different and has blessed the place abundantly. As we moved away from Switzerland, our surroundings changed dramatically. Although the settings were nice, they appeared average to our minds, which were immersed in the aura of Switzerland. The traffic was greater than what we saw in Italy or Switzerland and gave us a slight hint of the buzz of Paris, perhaps the most happening place in Europe. The number of beautiful cottages went down and both sides of the road showed sprawling fields, some of them green while some were ploughed. We saw large warehouses, storage spaces, and small and large industrial setups on both sides. Some of the setups were spread over a few miles. We saw manufacturing facilities of some of the popular brands also. France is home to a huge manufacturing industry and is a leading country in the research & development sector. We crossed Basel, a place known for industry. We were carrying packed lunch boxes. We had a lunch break in a park, within the premises of one of the Autogrill outlets in a place named Troy. We have stopped at a couple of Autogrill outlets during our tour so far. Each one of them was spread over a large area and provided with all the essential amenities like a park, lavatories, shops, eating outlets, snacks & beverage vending machines, and ample parking space. I noticed that people were fond of enjoying coffee in the traditionally shaped small cups made of bone china, which were invariably white. On this tour so far, I realised that Europeans worked hard with sincerity, but even then, no one was in a hurry. They were prompt, yet they looked calm. Be it a long queue at St. Peter’s in the Vatican or a large crowd at Piazzale Michelangelo in Florence, orderliness seemed to be a way of life and was palpable at every step. Cleanliness at every such place was outstanding. Discipline was almost a culture.

     As per the itinerary, we were supposed to reach the hotel in the evening and proceed on the onward journey the next morning. However, our tour manager suggested a night tour of Paris city. Some of us, including me, were not ready initially, as all of us were feeling tired. Moreover, we were supposed to proceed to Disneyland quite early the next morning. After some deliberation over the matter, we all decided to go for it. We reached the hotel after dinner, freshened up hurriedly, and gathered in the lounge to board a coach. As the coach reached the highway, the twinkling outskirts of Paris welcomed us. As we got nearer to the city, the humble twinkling soon became a shimmer, giving us a glimpse of the extravaganza of Paris. The capital and the largest city of France, Paris, is the fourth-largest city in the European Union. It is one of the world’s major centres of commerce, fashion, culture, international relations, arts, science, and yes - gastronomy. We entered the city and the dazzling Paris began to show off. It is said that Paris was the first place in the world which introduced street lighting, and eventually was called the City of Lights. Although the shops were very modern, the vintage setup of the road was preserved. We were exploring Champs-Elysees street, the world’s most beautiful avenue, which is known for its world-famous theaters, cafes, and luxury shops. The road made of blocks is still preserved, offering a feel of the olden days. Similarly, the designs of the footpaths, walkways and streetlights were preserved too. The only difference was that of the material of the lamps. In the olden days, oil lamps were lit in the evenings, and were kept glowing till dawn. Although the lamps are now operated electronically, they create a similar aura even today. After every short distance, the design of the streetlights changed. Every lamp post and the lamp body were elegantly designed. The glow of each unique lamp was humble but classy enough to get noticed amidst the modern gleam. We got down from the coach just close to ‘Arc de Triomphe’, a grand monument. It is located at a juncture formed by twelve radiating avenues. The Arc de Triomphe honours those who fought and died for France in the French Revolution and Napoleonic wars. The names of all French victories and generals are inscribed both on its inner and outer surfaces. Beneath its vault lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from WW-1. An eternal flame burns in memory of the dead who were never identified. The Arc de Triomphe is an architectural masterpiece which narrates an interesting history. Like other monuments and structures we saw in Italy, the Arc de Triomphe also reveals the exclusive talent of the great artisans of the era. The Arc de Triomphe stood majestically, humbly illuminated from all sides. We drove down a little ahead and had our first glimpse of the iconic tower of France. We got down from the coach in a square near Trocadero. We walked down to a large open area of Trocadero and were just speechless. The iconic Eiffel Tower stood grand. It was an enormous structure, with all its outlines lit with beautiful lamps. The beauty and the grandeur are beyond my capacity to express them. The tower left me amazed, awestruck, and stunned. I kept on watching it for a long time. As per the prevalent practice, the lights of the tower blink every hour for a minute. There were more than three thousand people on the Trocadero platform, who all cheered together, as the lights of the tower began to blink and dance at the stroke of 11 in the night. But I liked the humbly lit tower more than the one with the dancing lights.

     We spent some more time at the Trocadero. The Eiffel Tower was just haunting. I could not take my eyes off it for a long time. The crowd at the Trocadero was massive, but there was no pushing and shoving. Every one cheered, but there was no exhibition of frenzy and the conduct was decent. Some of us bought souvenirs of the Eiffel Tower too. Soon it began to rain and we had to rush to our coach. The roads, shops, and streetlights lured us again as we drove through the city. The shops were dazzling, but looked aristocratic. The cafes were scintillating, but showed quietness. The billboards were fewer and were brilliant. Every setting appeared vivid, yet had a touch of elegance. Paris had kept its promise of being grand and posed gracefully. But honestly, it was more than that. The day’s journey revealed the sheer prosperity of France, and the evening in Paris was much more than just regal.

(Roissy-en-France- 30 Apr, 2024)

(cont.)

*****

Europe: 7. Jungfraujoch and Interlaken

     Irrespective of the type, I have always found trains interesting. This one also reminded me of my childhood. I was watching a train moving on the railway track that was just adjacent to our hotel premises. It was fun to watch the train so closely. It added to our excitement as we were actually going to board a train that day - Jungfraujoch line, and that too, after a cable car ride. The coach ride was lovely once again. We enjoyed watching the magnificent landscapes as we would do every day. Colourful trains on the way looked pretty. At one point, our route was diverted due to ongoing road repair work. Even while the repair was in progress, the site was not unkempt. Blocks, barriers, tools, sand, chippings, etc. were neatly kept and did not affect the traffic adversely in any manner. The diversion was also very neatly planned, which took us through a small town, probably the countryside. Once again, I envied the people residing there for being able to stay in such a picturesque place. Quite unexpectedly, we came across a railway crossing barrier gate, which is very common in India. But, it was unmanned and operated automatically. The train was painted in dual tone - yellow and indigo, and needless to say, was beautiful. The discipline displayed by all in terms of the traffic was commendable. I wondered why such proficiency was not palpable in my home country. I was lost in thought when we arrived at Grindelwald terminal. We boarded the ‘Eiger Express’, the fastest and most modern attraction. It is a high-speed cable car. It took just 15 minutes for the cable car to take us from Grindelwald (3000 feet) to Eiger Glacier railway station, which was at 7000 feet. I was quite used to the neatness and cleanliness of Europe by then. Eiger Glacier railway station was as spick and span as other places would be. But when I looked at it keenly, I found the station quite swanky, almost like an airport lounge. It was learned that all the railway stations in Europe were equally classy. Our train was simple, but an elegant meter-gauge train. It was a ‘Cogwheel Railway’, specially designed to operate on steep grades. The trains are fitted with cogwheels that mesh with a toothed rack rail, which runs between the running rails. We were welcomed onboard by offering delicious chocolates. Barring a few minutes in the beginning, the entire ride was through a 7-kilometer-long tunnel. It was learned that the tunnel took 16 years to complete. In about 30 minutes we reached Jungfraujoch - Europe's highest railway station, which was at 11000 feet. As soon as we got off the train, we became a bit breathless, getting a hint of high altitude. The giddiness became very obvious as we reached the elevator area. We had scaled nearly 8000 feet in just more than an hour. The lack of acclimatisation showed its effects. Some of us took longer to recover. It was a great relief and a pleasant surprise to have a sumptuous Indian lunch on the top of a great glacier in the Alps. By the time we had our lunch, all of us had recovered from the high-altitude sickness. Once settled down, we took an elevator to the Sphinx station, an observatory deck from where we could see the lofty snow-covered peaks of the magnificent Alps. It was just white all over, yet looked beautiful. Zero visibility, harsh winds, and sub-zero temperatures were narrating the might of nature. Two black birds sitting on the fence of the deck were drawing the attention of all, perhaps telling us how they dared to fight mighty nature. The Ice Palace was a great amusement. Some of us said that the sculptures inside the Ice Palace were not solely made of ice and some other techniques were used. Overall, it was interesting. Jungfraujoch is the most favoured destination for skiers, which offers over 250 kilometers of perfect slopes, infrastructure, descents, snow parks, and a great opportunity for adventure sports. The area between Jungfraujoch railway station and the Sphinx observatory is called the ‘Top of Europe’ building, which includes several restaurants, shops, and a post office. Each one of us received a small booklet resembling a passport. There was a Jungfraujoch Passport Stamp machine just off the restaurant area for people to get a souvenir stamp. One could insert the dummy passport inside the stamp machine and get a stamp of the Jungfraujoch. It was fun. All of us were tired and needed refreshment. Although we knew that the coffee would be with less milk, we opted for it, thanks to the perfect weather. We returned to Grindelwald terminal by the same route. All along the way, I was wondering about the efforts Switzerland had made to preserve its beautiful vintage look even while implementing the most sophisticated technology. Every care was taken not to disturb the ecological balance while creating engineering marvels like cable cars, tunnels, roads, or the railway network. Uninterrupted wi-fi connectivity at the great heights of Jungfraujoch was laudable.

     As our coach moved through the small towns, our eyes once again got glued to the windows as they would do every day. Our excitement grew as our tour manager informed us that we were about to reach Interlaken (between lakes), yet another beautiful place. Interlaken is a Swiss district in the canton of Bern, and the main transport gateway to the mountains and lakes of the region. The town is a base from where travellers and backpackers begin their expeditions and explore the surrounding areas. The district has various companies providing guided services for skydiving, canyoning, hang gliding, paragliding, and skiing. We could see people gliding down and landing on a sprawling lush green ground which was just across the road. The walk-ways, roads, and footpaths were extraordinarily beautiful. Colourful flowers added to the beauty of the roads. We wondered how the beautiful planters were taken care of. Every corner was spick and span and contributed to the overall prettiness of the place. The place had hustle and bustle, yet it had a unique calmness. The shops were upper-class, but they still appeared humble. The overall manifestation was so elegant, still, it revealed serenity. We walked further to reach a spot near the Congress Centre. It was a popular tourist spot. For Indians, it was more so because of its relation to Hindi cinema. The late legendary Hindi cinema director Yash Chopra discovered Switzerland in 1970. The renowned film director was fascinated by the landscape around Interlaken and shot many of the scenes from his films there. The aura of the films had a great impact on the Indian audience as well as the Indian cinema industry. Since then, many directors have chosen Switzerland for shooting their films. This boosted Swiss tourism to a considerable extent. In 2011, the Swiss government honoured the late Yash Chopra with the title of Ambassador of Interlaken for presenting Switzerland's beauty to Indians through his films. In 2016, a bronze statue of the late Yash Chopra was installed as a tribute by the Switzerland government at the place where we had gathered. It was indeed an honour to see the acknowledgement of an Indian at such a faraway place.

     We boarded the coach, but with a heavy heart, as we were supposed to bid goodbye to beautiful Switzerland and proceed to Paris the next morning. Perhaps nature has gifted all its treasures to Switzerland. Switzerland has valued the treasures with all its might and made every effort to preserve even the most trivial aspect of the setting. Switzerland does deserve acclaim for its vision, will, zeal, and inclination. The Persian verse, which I mentioned previously justly speaks about the paradise status of Switzerland. Nature always gives us abundantly. However, it is entirely in our capacity to cherish, love, value, preserve, and conserve a beautiful gift.

(Affoltern am Albis- 29 Apr, 2024)

(cont.)

*****

Europe: 6. Chill, Serenity, and the amazing Lion

     As soon as our coach reached the highway, the surroundings took charge of our minds as they would do every day. The clouds and the rain created a different picture today. Europe is known for uneven weather conditions. It is said, that while in Europe, one must carry an umbrella as well as a winter jacket. A bright sunny day is taken over by drizzling within no time and the chilly winds catch you unaware. During winters, the drizzle may be followed by snowfall. Nevertheless, the sight looked pretty. Sometimes the cottages and the grasslands would hide behind the mist. Almost all the cottages had a designated place where small pieces of wood from the trimmed trees were neatly stacked which would be used during winter to run the fireplaces. I was searching for one, but the season being summer, I could not find any cottage with a chimney giving out smoke. Nowadays, most places in Europe have alternative methods to keep houses warm. Wood or coal is still used for fireplaces, but in a smaller percentage due to various concerns related to pollution and global warming. The soft grass was wetting itself in the drizzle, and the soaked breeze was teasing the wet flora. As the coach climbed the Alps, we could see snow resting on the peaks as well as on both sides of the road. We were engrossed in watching the magnificent view when we realised that we had reached Engelberg, which welcomed us with the surprise of bright sunshine but very cool winds too.

     We were supposed to board a cable car from Engelberg. In all, there were two such cable cars. The first was a routine one. The subsequent cable car is one of its kind and is the world's first rotating cable car. As it started moving, it began to rotate too, giving us a 360-degree view of the magnificent snow-covered mountains. As the cable car moved up, the supporting pillars behind us gradually became smaller, slowly getting blurred by the mist. It was fascinating to watch people skiing gracefully, who looked like small colourful dots sliding down the snow. Titlis is a mountain in the Alps. At around 10,000 feet above sea level, it is the highest summit of the range. The last part of the cable car leads above the glacier. The cable car took us to the highest point. The area was quite spread out and had shops, restaurants, amenities, etc. It is noteworthy that the point had uninterrupted and very efficient wi-fi connectivity. As we came out of the complex, the chilly winds just took away our breaths. It took some time for us to settle down. Fine snow particles carried by the harsh wind hit our faces. Occasionally the visibility was zero due to stormy conditions. Although we experienced the thrill of snow, we could not go to ‘The Titlis Cliff Walk’, which was closed due to bad weather. The northern side of the range is covered by the Titlis Glacier. Due to global warming, the glacier has receded dramatically in recent years, and is expected to disappear in about two decades. The summit of Titlis is located above the snow line, thus it has a snowy climate round the year with permanent snow cover and freezing temperatures. We could not spend a long time in snow as the weather was getting bad. It was quite cosy inside and offered some relief from the biting cold. While descending, we got down for a lunch break at a place called Trubsee, an intermediate cable car station. It is actually a high-altitude lake, and is a hydroelectric reservoir providing water to an underground power station. Trubsee cable car station was more widespread than the one at the Titlis top and had a series of shopping outlets along with the eateries. The quality and the extent of the facilities were praiseworthy. It was sheer delight to have an Indian lunch at Trubsee.

     With bellies full and minds thrilled, we boarded the coach. The curvy roads looked picturesque from a height. We were on our way to Lucerne, a German-speaking city in central Switzerland. Located at the outfall of Lake Lucerne onto the river Reuss, Lucerne is the most populous city in Central Switzerland, and a vital economic hub in the region. Lucerne is a centre of modern style tourism. After a brief orientation tour through the city, we reached the lakeside to board a cruise. The cruise ride was a calming experience. The turquoise waters appeared pristine, which reflected the serenity of the snow-capped peaks of the majestic Alps. Along the way, we glimpsed lakeside villages and charming cottages. One of the landmarks was the Chapel Bridge, a wooden bridge with an interesting history. The ride became more tranquil as the soft golden light of the evening soaked our minds along with the backdrops.

     Every one of us was excited as soon as we got off the cruise and headed for shopping. Apart from banks and insurance companies, Switzerland is a renowned place for exclusive watches, equally delicious chocolates, and high-class knives. The swanky watches were quite luring, while the collections of knives were amazing. Almost all of us bought a lot of chocolates. Some of us purchased watches too. It was fun and amusement to window-shop multi-storied shops dedicated to chocolates. “We have one more place to visit - The Lion Monument. It’s a sculpture.” announced our tour manager as we gathered in a square of the market. I wondered what there could be to explore in a sculpture of a Lion and followed him. But just like the Swiss Miniatur, this one was also a surprise. The Lion Monument, or the Lion of Lucerne, is a rock-cut relief, carved on living rock. It was designed by Bertel Thorvaldsen and made by Lucas Ahorn in the early 19th century. It honours the Swiss Guards who were massacred in the 18th century during the French Revolution, when revolutionaries stormed the Tuileries Palace in Paris. The dying lion is portrayed impaled by a spear. Beside him is a shield bearing the coat of arms of Switzerland. Like many other places in Europe, Lucerne has also been a witness of religious conflicts and political revolutions. ‘The Lion Monument’ and many such sculptures are an outcome of the overall impact of the revolutions on the social set-up over a period. With complex backgrounds, many monuments have always been hit by controversies. The Lion Monument is not an exception. But if we ignore the political debates and controversies, and explore the sole aspect of art, the monument is one of its kind. The wrinkles on the forehead perfectly narrated the pain and grief. The helplessness on the Lion’s face too appeared so real and touching. Like other monuments in Italy, this one also showed the details just impeccably, giving an account of the finesse of the artisan.

     The drive to the hotel was like rewinding and replaying the journey we did in the morning. Even then, it was different. Facades of the evening had painted the route more gorgeously. It was a day of a combination of art, history and nature. The Lion Monument once again compelled me to wonder how artisans kept art alive amidst so many revolutions, bloodshed and a period of socio-political unrest. Perhaps an intense passion for art keeps them driven. On one hand, Titlis gave us a chilling thrill, and on the other, Lucerne gifted us serenity, both once again endorsing the Persian verse mentioned in my previous article.

(Affoltern am Albis- 28 Apr, 2024)

(cont.)

*****

Europe: 5. If there is a Paradise on Earth …

     All of us were happy, but feeling sad too. Sad, because we were bidding adieu to the fascinating and nostalgic vibes of Italy; and happy, as we were finally heading towards the place most of us dream about- Switzerland. Switzerland (German: Schweiz) involves diverse landscapes. The Swiss Alps host many glaciers, from which originate several major rivers, which ultimately drain to form lakes. Switzerland has more than 1500 lakes, predominantly glacial in nature. We had been in Europe just for four days, but every one of us by then was quite used to the beautiful surroundings, and hungrily searching for more prettiness. Although the backgrounds were as pretty as every day, the magnificent lakes made our journey a different experience. The expanse of the calm waters narrated tranquillity. The long tunnels again welcomed and amazed us with their vast dimensions and equally meticulous settings. The ride became interesting when the coach touched the curvy roads of the mountains. Intermittent drizzling was a bonus. We could now see the farms and the cottages more clearly as we passed through small towns, probably the countryside. Sprawling and lush green farm, cattle engrossed in grazing, a decent cottage in the centre, children playing in the yard - what more could one wish for! As our eyes got glued to the windows, the serenity could be perceived even from a distance.

     “We have almost reached Swiss Miniatur, it’s a miniature park”, our tour manager announced as our coach passed by Lake Lugano. “Are we here to see something called miniature?”, some of us reacted with a bit of dissatisfaction. We followed the tour manager and what we saw was just beyond my capacity to express it. Swiss Miniatur is Switzerland’s largest open-air miniature museum, located in Melide, on the shores of Lake Lugano. The park is surrounded by majestic mountains and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. ‘Can any miniature park be so amazing?’ was my obvious reaction, with an awestruck face. Over 130 models of aristocratic houses, churches, castles, monuments, offices, and other interesting buildings in Switzerland can be viewed on a smaller scale, on an area of ​​more than 13,500 square meters. A network of nearly 3.5 kilometers of miniature railway wends its way through the park with 18 trains running on tracks, crossing bridges, and stopping at stations. Boats ply the lakes, cable cars climb and descend mountains, and cars run along the motorways. Surrounded by 15,000 types of flowers and over 1,500 trees, Switzerland can be explored in fast motion. Every little thing looked so real. It was raining all the while, but we explored the area with umbrellas open. The amusement in our hungry eyes and the excitement on our faces could be compared with the one seen among children. Just that we could not yell with ecstasy, as the children around were doing. It was like reliving one’s childhood. We thanked our tour manager for the lovely miniature treat as he took us for a continental lunch which was arranged at a restaurant inside the premises of Swiss Miniatur. Along with the amusement, I noticed an interesting but funny thing in the park. Many coins were seen at the bottom of a miniature canal. Europeans seemed really crazy about throwing coins and making a wish.

     As per the itinerary, we were supposed to spend some time at Lake Lugano and then proceed to our hotel. But we still had some extra time on our hands. Our tour manager suggested a place if all of us agreed. Our hungry minds did not hesitate at all, and we decided to go for it. Negotiating twists and turns, through picturesque countryside, we finally reached a place called Liechtenstein. We boarded an electric tram which was a replica of a train. As the tram started moving, a commentary in the background began to narrate the history and other details of the place. Situated in the Rhine valley, surrounded by mountains, it is Europe's fourth-smallest country, with an area of just over 150 square kilometers and a population of around 40000. Houses or offices, every structure looked so appealing, neat, and delightful. Tiny lanes, beautiful flowers, neatly mowed lawns gave a charming look to the city. The smallest planter was so well-kept. Although equipped with all the modern facilities, the vintage set-up of the houses was preserved. While embracing modernity, enough pains were taken to preserve the cultural heritage. Peculiar designs of windows, venetian blinds, and unique colours were captivating. Although colourful, the settings were sober, soothing yet elegant. The entire place seemed classy, but even then appeared humble. Each corner, every setting was so precisely done, that at one point of time I felt as if I was passing through a model toy town meant for a leisure tour. I was amazed to see such grace and elegance. I tried so hard, but could not stop myself envying the people of Switzerland for being able to stay in such a heavenly place. We finally gathered at a square in Vaduz, the capital of Liechtenstein. It was tough to choose whether to drink the beauty hungrily or capture it on my camera. I finally decided to just watch and stock the grandeur in my memories.

     People who have visited Switzerland along with other countries state that there is no place as beautiful as Switzerland. Nature probably bestows its entire benevolence on such beautiful places. Geography plays a major role indeed, but human efforts are also crucial in conserving the beautiful gift of nature. Along with the sincere efforts to keep the emissions at the lowest, the dedication to maintain all kinds of connectivity, means of transport, public utility amenities, and cleanliness was outstanding. Every little structure was preserved, even a small planter. Each setting was looked after with great amiability, almost being cherished. I have read countless mentions of Switzerland, both short and long. Every such write-up appeared as a dream, sometimes even a fairy-tale. Almost every one among my acquaintances who visited there was of the opinion that the place could be described neither in words nor by means of any artwork. I had to believe them, when I visited there myself. Amazed by the beauty, I was completely absorbed by the exquisiteness of Switzerland. As we boarded our coach for the onward journey, all of us were filled with admiration and a great sense of satisfaction, and were speechless. The memories of the day which had begun to flock to my mind reminded me of a famous Persian verse, supposedly written by Ameer Khusrau.

गर फ़िर्दौस बर रूए ज़मीं अस्त,

हमीं अस्तो, हमीं अस्तो, हमीं अस्त.

If there is a paradise on earth,

It is this, and it is this, and it is this.

Danke Schweiz (Thanks Switzerland)!

(Affoltern am Albis- 27 Apr, 2024)

(cont.)

*****

Europe: 4. Venice- Romance and Music

     As the bright sunshine greeted us, we bid goodbye to Florence, which had mesmerised every one of us with sheer beauty and nostalgia. The roads, surroundings, and beautiful cars once again began to fill our minds with their magnificence. We crossed a number of tunnels, some short, some of them very long. The maintenance of the tunnels was thorough. Picturesque surroundings did not let us feel tired even as we travelled for nearly four hours. We had our lunch in an Indian restaurant in Mestre, a beautiful place on our way. Post lunch we reached Tronchetto, from where we boarded a ‘Vaporetto’, a steamer boat (water bus). We could see major settings during the half-an-hour ride, which took us to Venice island. Venice is built on more than 120 islands, separated by water canals. Portions of the city are linked by nearly 400 bridges. A city of canals and bridges, Venice is a part of the metropolitan area, which includes other cities too. A major centre of commerce during and after the Renaissance, Venice is also called queen of the Adriatic Sea. But the water canals and lagoons of Venice are under constant threat of floods due to their peculiar ecology.

     As we stepped out of the Vaporetto, Venezia (Venice) gave us a graceful welcome. The hustle and bustle of the place gave it the look of a fair. Out of the small and large shops, the most striking were those of masks worn during the Carnival of Venice. We crossed a few bridges and reached the ‘Bridge of Sighs’. It’s a corridor which links the ‘Doge’s Palace’ to the ‘New Prison’. Built in the Venetian style, the Doge’s Palace was the residence of ‘Doge’, the head of the former republic of Venice. During the initial phase, there were holding cells within the palace, but later more prisons were created, collectively called New Prison. During that era, the Bridge of Sighs used to be the last sight of Venice for the convicts before commencement of their imprisonment. The Bridge of Sighs has been featured in many movies as well as song albums. The bridge has many fascinating anecdotes to it too. Inspired by the interesting background and the architecture, a number of imitations of the Doge’s Palace and the Bridge of Sighs were made all over the world, including Oxford and Cambridge. Going further, after crossing a couple of more bridges, we took a right turn, came St. Mark square. It is the principal public square, dominated by St. Mark Basilica, Column of the Lion of Venice, Column of Theodore, and Bell tower. St. Mark Basilica is the former political and religious centre of the Republic of Venice, and is attached to the Doge’s Palace. Although the architecture is Italian, it is different from the Roman style. While the arches display a Roman impact, the domes tell about Islamic influence. Together they make a beautiful combination called the Venetian (Gothic) style. The bell tower (St. Mark’s Campanile) stands out majestically. Just like the Bridge of Sighs, the Campanile also inspired the designs of various towers worldwide. The columns are again a marvellous piece of art. Going further ahead, we saw a long arcade lined by shops and restaurants at ground level, with offices above. Each restaurant had laid tables in the designated open space and each one had its own small live band- a violin, a piano, a saxophone, a clarinet, and a cello; wow, enough to hold me. I have been intermittently listening to Jazz or Western classical music since class 12 and like it. I could listen to three bands, each one playing a different piece, and all were equally mellow. A couple of pieces sounded familiar. Although I did not know the details of the composition or the composer, I got completely absorbed by the soothing melody. Apart from being known for beautiful architectural settings, Venice has been an eminent place for instrumental music for a long time. Known for operatic music, Venice is the birthplace of many great composers like Vivaldi.

     Having witnessed architecture and music, it was now time to explore the Romanza di Venezia (Romance of Venice). Venice still maintains the traditional set-up of the Gondola- elegant body painted in shimmering black, golden artwork, rich upholstery, and the iconic metal hood! Gondolas have been a favourite worldwide, and can be seen in umpteen movies, songs, and many other art forms. Our Gondolier helped us board the Gondola. We were already inside a narrow lane when we heard someone singing a song. It was the Gondolier who was following us, singing a Venetian song to the people seated in his Gondola. The Gondolier continued his singing, which made our ride livelier. All along the way, we saw shops and homes on both sides, all of them reflecting beautiful Venetian patterns of doors, windows, and colours. People sat and relaxed in their homes, some of them gladly waving at us. The skill of the Gondolier was evident when he promptly bent to negotiate some of the bridges we crossed, which were at much less height than others. The entire ride was calm. The waters were peaceful. The quietness was peculiar and tranquil; the only sound played was that of the splashing of water created by the oar.

     Again, the constraint of time upset me. There was so much to see inside the Doge’s Palace and St. Mark Basilica, but could not be explored. However, I managed to have a glimpse of some of the narrow lanes, lined by small outlets, reminding me of the lively markets of Chaandni Chowk, Ameena Baagh, and Chaar Meenaar. Various glassware shops displayed beautifully made Venetian glass products, for which Venice is eminent. Our tour manager took us to a shop for the much-awaited topping of the day. Every evening he used to take us promptly to a unique eating outlet and offer coffee or delicious toppings. Today, it was ‘Italian Gelato ice cream’, and was a delight, especially after a mesmerising Gondola ride.

     As we boarded our coach, I took my pen and notebook to scribble down the memories of the day. It was a day with diverse affairs. Doge’s Palace and the Bridge of Sighs narrated a fascinating history, St. Mark Basilica displayed majestic architecture, the bands took me on an opulent tour of music, and the Gondola ride was a serene finale.

(Padua- 26 Apr, 2024)

(cont.)

*****

• La Pieta

Your gentle feet and tiny toes,

Comforted my lap once upon a time,

My arms stroked you blissfully then,

For you, I hummed a calming rhyme,

But now my arms hold a muted song,

Of your silence, bestowed on me by time,

Today, you lie on the same old lap,

Indeed, lifeless and inert, yet so sublime. 1

I will keep on recalling you as a toddler,

Henceforth, they will look at you as a leader,

Your cries were calmed by my caress then,

For them, now you are going to be the healer,

You rehearsed whatever I voiced, said, sang,

They will find knowledge in you, a teacher,

Today, while I weep, detached from my soul,

They will find peace, blessed by a preacher. 2

You were composed, unmoved by the ordeal,

But so much concerned about my well-being,

You knew who all sinned against you,

Still, you said to adapt the art of forgiving,

You were spreading the message of kindness,

Even when your disciples kept on betraying,

Hated; yet you insisted on spreading love,

Regretted, Peter shall forever be weeping. 3

When you were not even born,

Did you deserve to face hatred,

For spreading the message of kindness,

Did you deserve to get hurt or wounded,

Was such ferocity justly indispensable,

To learn the essence of being kind-hearted,

Was your sacrifice truly obligatory,

To realise that love was supreme, sacred. 4

(Rome- 24 Apr, 2024)

(The ‘Madonna della Pieta’, informally known as ‘La Pieta’ is a marble sculpture by Michelangelo. A masterpiece, ‘La Pieta’ is kept in St. Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City.)

*****