The
leaves, the twigs, the trees,
(Select lines from my English poetry book)
The
journey from Stockholm to Bergen was not so exciting. It was a routine flight,
which took off at 8 in the morning. We arrived in Bergen at around 9:30 am. But
we were quite hungry as we had missed our breakfast due to an early morning flight.
Already informed by our tour manager about missing the breakfast, many of us
were carrying dry snacks as a contingency measure. Some of us opted for a quick
snack and black tea at the Stockholm airport itself.
Our welcome in Bergen was quite
interesting! As soon as we got out of the airport, a rocky mountain front with
large and embossed letters ‘BERGEN?’ caught our attention. BERGEN was
understood, but the following question mark puzzled us. It was learned that the
weather in Bergen is very random. One just cannot forecast whether it would be
sunny or rainy. Generally, the entire Europe is known for its unstable climate,
but Bergen seemed quite peculiar in terms of unpredictable weather conditions. As
our puzzle of the question mark got resolved, the sun had already started
playing hide and seek through the white clouds which were lazily strolling in
the blue sky. Surrounded by mountains, Bergen is called the city of seven
mountains. It is the second-largest city in Norway. Bergen is the busiest port
in Norway in terms of both freight and passengers. Gradually growing over a
period, today, Bergen is an international centre for aquaculture, shipping and
petroleum industry. We spent some time near the market in the centre of the
city. It was similar to the fish market we visited in Helsinki. I could hear
someone playing a Hawaiian guitar. My feet just could not resist and took me to
the spot. I made a request to play me a song of his choice. To my pleasant
surprise, he played ‘Lambada’ for me. It was lovely to sit at leisure and enjoy
a vintage classic. As a token of appreciation, I paid him humbly. He thanked me
and continued playing. He played a few more popular numbers. His general getup
made me believe that he was struggling to make two ends meet. I was lost in
thoughts, as I did not expect such a scenario in one of the wealthiest and
happiest countries in the world. Incidentally, I noticed a couple of beggars in
Stockholm also. The resilience of the guitar player to survive in affluent
surroundings was laudable.
We had lunch in an Indian restaurant. Post
lunch, we boarded our coach again to have a short orientation tour on our way
to the funicular ride. Our guide for the day told us that almost 80 percent of
Bergen was destroyed in a massive fire in 1702, and what we saw that day was a
rebuilt Bergen. The buildings built after the fire used bricks and paint
instead of traditional tar or wood. The hard work put in and the patience of
the country was palpable as we moved through the city. Although we saw some high-rise
buildings, the old set-up was generally preserved. Although provided with all the
modern amenities, sincere efforts were made to maintain the vintage look, which
eventually made the set-up look classy. All of us were excited as we reached
the entry gate of the funicular ride. It was a short ride taking us to Floyen, the
top of Bergen, which was like a plateau. Though many people explored the food
outlets and shops, most of the visitors preferred to sit and relax on a platform
that was actually a set-up of long stairs. The panoramic view of Bergen was
soothing. Even from a great height and distance, Bergen looked calm and serene,
nestled in the lap of nature. The fjords narrated the tranquillity, which was
an identity of not only Bergen, but the entire Scandinavian region. I could have
sat there for any length of time, hungrily taking in the beauty and the peace.
But time was a harsh constraint that forced us to move on to our next
destination.
Overwhelmed by the prettiness of Bergen,
we proceeded to Wharf, which is a unique feature of Scandinavia. Wharf in Bryggen
is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which was a centre of Hanseatic commercial activities
during mediaeval times. Today it houses museums, shops, restaurants etc. Again,
Bryggen we see today is a rebuilt version of the older form that was destroyed
in fire. Typically coloured in pastel, Wharves looked charming, fascinating and
unmistakably took us into history. We spent some time near the waterfront also.
The almost still waters were comforting. Generally, every European country has
made great efforts to preserve the vintage settings and traditions in spite of
widespread devastation during world wars or by nature’s fury. Europe has certainly made
amazing progress, but has successfully preserved the historical settings as well. The efforts are not only praiseworthy and inspiring, but worth replicating too.
As the itinerary of the day came to an
end, I was lost in thoughts once again. The day was relaxed. The calming vibes
of Bergen perfectly complimented the relaxed pace of our itinerary of the day. Bergen
had fascinated me just like Helsinki and Stockholm. I sincerely wish India could follow at least a few steps taken by Europe in an honest attempt to make itself
a calm, restful and peaceful place. The struggle of the guitar player to
survive amid highly prosperous surroundings narrated the bitter truth of hard
life once again. As I said earlier, I noticed beggars in Stockholm also. Although the situation
was not as harsh as we see in India, it still pinched me to a substantial
extent. The coexistence of contrasting facets of society is indeed disturbing,
but seems a universal and inevitable phenomenon.
The
weather remained kind to us the entire night. The sea was calm, and the ride
was smooth, except for occasional mild vibrations which were supposedly
expected on any cruise. We had an early breakfast and reached the top deck.
Though not clear, the morning sky looked quite bright. It was not windy as it
was the previous night and the light breeze was soothing, giving us an
opportunity to enjoy a stroll on the top deck. We were steadily sailing,
getting close to the shores of Stockholm. Nestled in small rocky hills, the
beautiful houses at the shoreline were enjoying private and comfy moments.
Occasional water scooters stirred the quiet ripples of the blue waters, painting
them white for a while. The seagulls were catching the attention of one and all
with their peculiar screech, grunt and squawk sounds. As our cruise anchored at
the Stockholm shores, the sky was almost clear.
After disembarking from the cruise, we boarded
our coach for a city tour of Stockholm, which seemed a busy place, with a
sizeable crowd. Besides the political and economic centre, it is the largest
urban area in the Nordic countries. Being a cultural centre of Sweden,
Stockholm is known for housing many ceremonial halls, and we were going to
visit one of them, the Stockholm city hall. The construction is of red bricks,
which were traditionally used in monasteries and churches. Influenced by
Venetian Gothic architecture, the hall has many wooden masts and statues,
golden artwork and decorated balconies. The Blue Hall is special. It is the
dining hall where banquets are held after the annual Nobel Prize award
ceremony. After the banquet, a ball is held in the Golden Hall, which lies
above the Blue Hall. The Golden Hall is made of nearly 18 million mosaic tiles,
which make use of motifs from Swedish history. The northern wall shows a large
seated queen of Lake Malar. I was wondering how overwhelming it might be for
any Nobel Laureate to attend such an event.
As we passed by the War Collegium and
Swedish Radio office, we could feel the buzz of the city. The city has an
extensive public transport system. The tram line, light rail and the bus
services are very efficient and widely used by all. The traditional buildings
took us into past as our tour guide for the day told us the history of
Sweden in short. “We will walk down from here up to the museum”, our guide told
us as we got down from our coach. We walked down a short distance and reached a
building which resembled a ship’s hull. The wooden panels with masts were
perfectly designed to make one curious about the interiors. The Vasa Museum is
a maritime museum in Stockholm. The museum displays a salvaged 64-gun 17th century
ship called ‘Vasa’ that sank on her maiden voyage in 1628 after sailing less
than two kilometres. The salvaged ship was treated with polyethylene glycol.
Certain missing parts were replaced. The original parts have been darkened due
to prolonged contact with water. The replacement parts are not treated or
painted and can be distinctly made out of the original parts. The roof of the
museum is made of copper. We saw the ship from six levels, from the keel to the
very top of the captain’s cabin. Along with the ship in the centre, the main
hall has various exhibits related to the archaeological findings of the ships
of the 17th century. The Vasa is probably the only 17th century ship that has
been salvaged and preserved almost fully intact. Although the ship sank after
sailing for less than two kilometres, the skill of the artisans and the
mathematical knowledge of the designers are amazing considering the non-digital
era. It was fascinating to learn how sailors scaled the boundless seas in
unpredictable weather conditions in the olden days with very limited navigation
techniques. The hard work and continual search for excellence in the field of
shipmaking and sailing was evident in the exhibits in the main hall.
Our
tour guide of the day made us curious about the royal family while narrating the
history of Sweden. Sweden is a constitutional monarchy where monarch exercises
their authority in accordance with a constitution and is not alone in making
decisions. Fascinating stories related to kings and kingdoms have always left
me enquiring. The Royal Palace of Stockholm was not going to be an exception.
It is erected in the same place as the mediaeval Tre Kronor Castle, which was
destroyed in a fire in 1697. It took more than 50 years before the king and the
queen moved into the palace, as the war-affected kingdom did not have enough
funds to build the palace. The Royal Palace is the official residence and major
royal palace of the Swedish monarch. The palace is made of brick and sandstone
and the roofs are covered with copper. It has more than 1000 rooms, four
facades named after the four cardinal directions and two courtyards. The
exteriors are adorned with beautiful sculptures, medallions and reliefs. The
Pink Drawing Room and the White Sea ballroom looked majestic. The Hall of State
and the Bernadotte galleries were grand. The events unfolded in my mind like a
movie as the tour guide narrated how the kingdom evolved to reach the present
stage. Interestingly, similar to Finland, the Swedish king was also on summer
holidays. Countries like Sweden are examples of how the old monarchy and new
democratic setup can work together and still adjust to the modern times and
progress exceptionally well without compromising on quality.
We had lunch in an Indian restaurant and went to the Globe Arena to have a panoramic view of Stockholm city. Unfortunately, some of the members of our group got stuck at the top due to a technical glitch. They were rescued with great difficulty. The Globe ride was closed to all visitors after the incident. We also had a brief visit to the ‘Ice bar’, a place entirely made from ice. Even the glasses in which the drinks were served were made of ice. It was fun.
(Stockholm)
Our mobile phones were displaying the time as 9 pm when we reached our hotel, but the summer sky in Helsinki was still as bright as it would be in India at 4 o’clock in the evening, assuring every one of us that we had knocked at the right door. Being close to the North Pole, Scandinavian countries enjoy nearly six months of daylight. The sky never becomes dark. Even at midnight, the horizon remains soaked in twilight. We had to draw the curtains neatly as we wanted darkness to have a sound sleep after a long and tiring journey.
As I pulled aside the curtains and peeped out, the morning greeted me with a bright sunshine that was again quite unusual for me at 5-30 am. The sky was clear, occasionally teased by a few silver clouds. The surroundings were wet as it had rained the previous night. I got ready a little early. The breakfast was sumptuous. Quiet surroundings took charge of me as I stepped out of the main entrance of the hotel. It was a delight to see House Sparrows chirping around, which are nowadays hard to find in India. A couple of joggers, some cyclists, and a few cars stirred the silence. The calmness was soothing for someone like me who was used to the noisy surroundings of the Indian cities. I could perceive the calmness more as our coach began to move through the city. Apart from the luxurious taxis, the trams caught my attention with their elegance and beauty. Painted in yellow-green or bright red, the trams are the main means of transport in the city centre. In some parts of the city, the tracks are separated from the road traffic; elsewhere they share road space with cars and buses. A single light rail line was also made operational a few years back, but it is separate from the city centre tram network. As we passed by the parliament building and the offices, our tour guide said that many of the members of the parliament were out of their offices as they were on summer holidays. The parliament building was sober, decent, and without any security cover or barricades. It was interesting to learn that even the Prime Minister was on summer holidays. Our tour guide informed us that it was mandatory for all to avail almost six weeks of holidays every year, which was, in my view, one of the factors that made Scandinavia one of the happiest places in the world. Helsinki is the capital and most populous city in Finland and has one of the highest standards of urban living in the world. We got down from our coach at a distance from our first place of visit. Like I noticed on my Italy-Swiss tour last year, Scandinavia also seemed concerned about emissions around important archaeological sites. Vehicles are usually restricted at such sites. As we walked down, again, the calmness could be perceived. ‘Rock Church’, our first place of visit, was located in a quiet place. Built directly out of solid rock, it’s a Lutheran Church which was opened in 1969 and is located in the heart of the city. The original character of the square is maintained, which is its fundamental concept. The inside of the church is bathed in natural light which enters through the skylight surrounding the central copper dome. The dome is uniquely designed, made of nearly 22 kilometres of copper strip. The copper dome along with rough and virtually unworked rock surfaces create excellent acoustics, making the church a favourite venue for various concerts. Interestingly, the church has a ‘Church organ’, but no bells. A recording of bells composed by a Finnish composer is played via loudspeakers on the outer wall. The church was a modest structure without any carvings or artistic creations. There was a corner where people could light wax lamps and keep them on a platform. Even though not being followers of Lutheranism, some of us put the lighted lamps and offered their reverence. Worship is a universal expression, free from the captivity of caste, creed, colour or religion.
As we moved on, the beautiful trams caught our attention with their sheer charm. The coach was parked in the parking area. We had to walk a short distance to reach the Sibelius monument, located in Sibelius Park. The Sibelius Monument by Eila Hiltunen is dedicated to the Finnish composer Jean Sibelius. The design of the monument looks like organ pipes arranged in a wave-like pattern. Apart from the qualities and errors of the abstract art, it also sparked debate as the composer had created little music for organs. Hiltunen addressed her critics by adding the face of Sibelius which sits beside the main sculpture. Hiltunen's aim was to capture the essence of the music of Sibelius. There are a number of examples around the world, where, more than art, controversies have made monuments popular.
We had lunch in an Indian restaurant, from where we were supposed to reach the cruise terminal. All of us were excited about an overnight cruise journey, which was maiden for many of us. Each setting was like that of any airport, except that we were going to board a cruise. Every one of us was curious to enjoy the sprawling decks, scenic surroundings and luxurious interiors. After due formalities of check-in and boarding, we moved to the top deck. All present cheered as the cruise blew horns, announcing the departure. Soon we were in the middle of the current. The blue water enchanted us with its shimmer. As the cruise sailed gracious and smooth, the water mesmerised us with its calmness. The only sounds which stirred the calmness were those of water scooters and seagulls. It was quite windy, and we had to wear jackets. We wanted to spend more time on the deck, but had to take refuge in the interiors, as we could no longer bear the cold winds. It was cosy inside, bustling with people. We bought ourselves coffee and some snacks, and began exploring various outlets. The shop line was extensive. Small cafeterias were elegant. We enjoyed a beautiful performance by a music band. All the performers sang beautifully and did not fail to impress us. The restaurant in which our dinner was arranged was roomy and filled with the unique aroma which began to tickle our taste buds at the entrance itself. Although the buffets were stacked with a variety of continental cuisines, it was a bit tough to decide what to pick for the platter, as several dishes were new to many of us. But, finally, every one of us could manage to fill our bellies sumptuously. After dinner, at around 10 at night, we reached the top deck once again to view the night sky. The sky was still glowing, but it was not as bright as the previous night in Helsinki because of clouds and rain. We wanted to watch the sunset, but we realised that it was not possible, as the sky was not going to be clear at least that night. We bid goodbye to the calm waters which had begun to hide behind the mist formed by the drizzle.
It was indeed a tiring day, yet winning. The rocks of the Lutheran Church softened our stance, took us into history and once again taught us the lesson of oneness. The legacy of the music left behind by Jean Sibelius once again emerged as the winner in the conflict of art and ego. To conclude the chapter, the calm waters took us to an almost mystical state. Be it a spread-out sea, or an unbound desert, I often wonder about the secrets these entities probably nurture, which are unmistakably spellbinding.
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(Select lines from my Hindi poetry book)
“It’s
a state of mind,” our Marathi teacher said while explaining a set of definitions
of happiness. She remained our Marathi teacher during the entire high school
period. Being a major language in our curriculum, we had to work extra for
Marathi. The Marathi teacher also made sincere efforts to teach us the subject
with similar zeal during every session. She was well read. Her vocabulary was comprehensive
and the way of teaching was precise. She would elaborate even on a simple word,
a short phrase or a minor theme. Many a time we got bored, but she never lost
her patience as she knew the necessity of the detailed explanation. Even today,
I can distinctly recollect her words. Every so often she used to say, “A human must
treat a human like a human.” We did not understand the essence of her words at
the tender age and often found them funny. Apart from details of the subject, Marathi
lessons taught us some of the vital values of life too. I realised this as I
grew up and came across a number of situations which narrated the same teachings.
Happiness was one of the topics discussed at various levels during high school,
particularly class 10. As I got enrolled in medical college and entered a
domain of contest, I got practical lessons on some of the aspects of happiness which
our Marathi teacher explained. Situations were diverse and so were our
reactions. A few of us searched for happiness in creation, but many of us were
happy to be admirers of those creations. Some colleagues found happiness in
trivial occurrences, while a few of them remained unmoved even with the greatest
achievements. A popular verse from ‘Manache Shlok’ by Saint Ramdas Swami says-
“Who is the happiest of them all, only you can search for it for yourself, O my
mind.” On introspection, one may realise that no one is wholly happy. Everyone
seems to be continually searching for bigger and more than what is attained or
received; often least realising that one can certainly try and find happiness
in smaller or lesser accomplishments too.
Apart
from a state of mind, happiness is also about a way to look at things. Even
with sincere and honest efforts, success or fulfillment may sometimes remain
out of reach. Such circumstances leave us with no option than to accept the
outcome and be content. During such situations, less pain or less
dissatisfaction is often acknowledged as happiness. At times one expects more
than what is deserved and feels unhappy when the prospects fall short. Usually,
we don’t value or perceive things when they bless us with happiness in real
time; we rudely overlook or ignore them. We may realize our errors and regret,
but only when the moment is gone.
It
is true that many happy moments are hidden within material gain, yet they
cannot match the joy of giving. The desire for worldly-wise pleasures is not
inappropriate, but greed is. To overcome the state, several affluent families
opt for philanthropy, which certainly adds to the happiness already acquired
through materialism. Many well-to-do individuals practice a minimalist approach
after attaining a certain altitude in personal or professional life. If
compared with the present day, life in the olden days appears simple, humble,
yet happy. With modernisation, the world has become self-centred. The modern
world tends to amass pleasures, but seems to shed the ethos of sharing. The
selfish view has parted us from our near and dear ones and friends. The digital
revolution might have brought the world closer in technological terms, yet the
warmth is missing.
In an attempt to achieve more in a shorter span, the ambitious world forgets to take a break or enjoy some moments of leisure and usually finds itself lost and alone in distressing chaos. Recreation and rejuvenation are vital for refreshing our minds and for improved performance. One must draw a line to be content and experience true happiness.
It’s tough to eke out a living,
(An adaptation of a poem from my Marathi poetry book)
(मुजस्सम-actual, चश्म-ए-शब-moon/eyes of the night, नशेमन-ए-दीदा-nest of the eyes, मुलाक़ात-ओ-रू-ब-रू-interaction and face to face)
■ विजयादशमी
We were still lost in the lingering memories of Disneyland, which had rejuvenated one and all. The memories will stay with everyone for a very long time. It was not only a tour of childhood, but a beautiful experience, reviving our minds which had gone a bit dull in the hustle and bustle of professional and personal commitments. Our revitalised looks were apparent as we boarded our coach for a city tour of Paris. The traffic was moving slowly. The number of visitors seemed more,like the previous day. The traffic was diverted in many places as Paris was preparing itself for Olympics. Some locations were barricaded, and we had to be satisfied by only glimpses. The stairs leading to the front gallery of the National Assembly were decked with colourful dummies of athletes. Makeshift stadiums were being erected in suitable open areas. The entire city was getting a festive look for the grand sporting event. The Arc de Triomphe posed elegantly. It looked as splendid during the day, as it looked in the sober shimmer during the night. The streets which we saw at night looked equally beautiful in the bright sun. We could see the iconic tower from a distance as the coach moved towards Champ de Mars park. We got down from the coach in the parking and walked towards the Pont Alexandre bridge. A lady on the bridge was taking pictures of various tourists and printing them on a dummy front page of a retro newspaper. She did not charge any price for that and told us we could pay any amount we wished to. Many of us got our pictures in black & white and paid happily. It was fun and a lovely souvenir. We walked down the bridge and crossed the Place de la Concorde square. The amazing giant won our hearts right at the introductory glimpse. The Eiffel Tower stood grand and greeted us graciously. The Eiffel Tower is a wrought-iron structure in the Champ de Mars park area. It is named after the engineer Gustave Eiffel, whose company designed and built the tower in 1889. It is a freestanding vertical framework tower. It’s a construction technique which is widely used in making electric transmission towers, radio towers or observation towers. The technique helps in building a stronger structure, at a much lower weight, with more wind resistance than that of a tower of solid construction. It is nicknamed ‘La dame de Fer’ (French: Iron Lady). It was constructed as the centrepiece of the 1889 World’s Fair, and to crown the centennial anniversary of the French Revolution. The tower is 330 meters tall, as high as an 81-storey building, and is the tallest structure in Paris. The tower has three levels for visitors, with restaurants and amenities on the first and second levels. The top level is the highest observation deck accessible to the community in the European Union. Although there is a staircase, most visitors use a lift to reach various levels. The top level has a radio broadcasting aerial and an apartment built for Gustave Eiffel’s private use.
There was a deluge of visitors. The queue
was very long and tested our patience. It started raining, and we faced strong
and chilly winds, making us feel the wait even longer. But the long wait gave
me a chance to study the tower. The design was majestic, and the resources
seemed to be of very high standards. Be it a hand-railing of a staircase or a
large bolt of a beam of the tower, each component was of a very high caliber. In
this tour so far, I observed that there was no compromise anywhere in terms of
quality, standards or safety. All the structures and the edifices appeared
technically sound, irrespective of the era in which they were built. The zeal, the
passion and the hard work were noticeable and commendable. The tower was an
engineering marvel, born out of a genius’s mind. A gush of cool wind welcomed
us as we stepped out of the lift and reached the gallery on the first level. The
queue for the lift to reach the second level was long again. I decided to stay
at the first level and enjoy the sights of gorgeous Paris. The neatness was obvious,
and the green cover appeared ample. The makeshift stadium which we saw from the
coach looked graceful. The Trocadero platform looked calm, from where we had
viewed the glittering Eiffel two nights ago. The panoramic view of Paris was
simply majestic and spoke volumes about the prosperity of the place. The level
had all the amenities, with uninterrupted wi-fi and the cleanliness was extraordinary.
The Eiffel Tower faced controversy during the initial period. It was criticised
by some of France’s leading artists and intellectuals for its design, who did
not believe it was feasible and objected on artistic grounds. However, it soon became
a global cultural icon of France and one of the most recognisable
structures in the world. The Eiffel Tower is the most visited monument with an entrance fee in the world and receives visitors in huge numbers every year.
Post lunch, we boarded a cruise on the
river Seine for an orientation tour of Paris. The cruise glided under the bridges of Paris and gave a breathtaking view of a succession of beautiful monuments along the waterway as we listened to commentary about Paris. The lady commentator spoke in English, Spanish and French, providing live commentary
about Paris and its history, monuments, and architecture.
The cruise ride marked the end of our tour. We were going to board a flight to our home country the next morning. As we bid adieu to Europe, all of us had mixed feelings. On one hand, we were immersed in the exquisiteness of Europe, but on the other, we felt sad about departing with the group members, who had become almost a family. Europe has gifted us lovely memories which will stay with us for life. While I enjoyed viewing magnificent places, I also felt a striking absence of many virtues in my home country, which were predominant in Europe almost like a culture. Every city we visited showed the highest regard for human life and a deep concern for children. The neatness was palpable everywhere, and the traffic was exceptionally disciplined. The cleanliness was praiseworthy. The infrastructure was of an outstanding technical grade and was user-friendly too. There were no banners, placards, posters or any kind of audiovisual display exhibiting religious, political or social matters. Billboards were almost non-existent. We did not see pushing and shoving anywhere. Even the most packed places showed quietness and tranquillity. Many prominent edifices were beautified, but did not pose gaudy. There was no lack of glitter, yet it never appeared ostentatious. I believe the progress, the prosperity and the serenity Europe or similar places demonstrate can only be attained by following a path of honesty, hard work and commitment. I wish to see more of Europe in the future.
Adios Europe, until we meet again!
(Roissy-en-France-
02 May, 2024)
