Scandinavia: 1. Helsinki- A cosy nest

 

     Our mobile phones were displaying the time as 9 pm when we reached our hotel, but the summer sky in Helsinki was still as bright as it would be in India at 4 o’clock in the evening, assuring every one of us that we had knocked at the right door. Being close to the North Pole, Scandinavian countries enjoy nearly six months of daylight. The sky never becomes dark. Even at midnight, the horizon remains soaked in twilight. We had to draw the curtains neatly as we wanted darkness to have a sound sleep after a long and tiring journey.

     As I pulled aside the curtains and peeped out, the morning greeted me with a bright sunshine that was again quite unusual for me at 5-30 am. The sky was clear, occasionally teased by a few silver clouds. The surroundings were wet as it had rained the previous night. I got ready a little early. The breakfast was sumptuous. Quiet surroundings took charge of me as I stepped out of the main entrance of the hotel. It was a delight to see House Sparrows chirping around, which are nowadays hard to find in India. A couple of joggers, some cyclists, and a few cars stirred the silence. The calmness was soothing for someone like me who was used to the noisy surroundings of the Indian cities. I could perceive the calmness more as our coach began to move through the city. Apart from the luxurious taxis, the trams caught my attention with their elegance and beauty. Painted in yellow-green or bright red, the trams are the main means of transport in the city centre. In some parts of the city, the tracks are separated from the road traffic; elsewhere they share road space with cars and buses. A single light rail line was also made operational a few years back, but it is separate from the city centre tram network. As we passed by the parliament building and the offices, our tour guide said that many of the members of the parliament were out of their offices as they were on summer holidays. The parliament building was sober, decent, and without any security cover or barricades. It was interesting to learn that even the Prime Minister was on summer holidays. Our tour guide informed us that it was mandatory for all to avail almost six weeks of holidays every year, which was, in my view, one of the factors that made Scandinavia one of the happiest places in the world. Helsinki is the capital and most populous city in Finland and has one of the highest standards of urban living in the world. We got down from our coach at a distance from our first place of visit. Like I noticed on my Italy-Swiss tour last year, Scandinavia also seemed concerned about emissions around important archaeological sites. Vehicles are usually restricted at such sites. As we walked down, again, the calmness could be perceived. ‘Rock Church’, our first place of visit, was located in a quiet place. Built directly out of solid rock, it’s a Lutheran Church which was opened in 1969 and is located in the heart of the city. The original character of the square is maintained, which is its fundamental concept. The inside of the church is bathed in natural light which enters through the skylight surrounding the central copper dome. The dome is uniquely designed, made of nearly 22 kilometres of copper strip. The copper dome along with rough and virtually unworked rock surfaces create excellent acoustics, making the church a favourite venue for various concerts. Interestingly, the church has a ‘Church organ’, but no bells. A recording of bells composed by a Finnish composer is played via loudspeakers on the outer wall. The church was a modest structure without any carvings or artistic creations. There was a corner where people could light wax lamps and keep them on a platform. Even though not being followers of Lutheranism, some of us put the lighted lamps and offered their reverence. Worship is a universal expression, free from the captivity of caste, creed, colour or religion.

     As we moved on, the beautiful trams caught our attention with their sheer charm. The coach was parked in the parking area. We had to walk a short distance to reach the Sibelius monument, located in Sibelius Park. The Sibelius Monument by Eila Hiltunen is dedicated to the Finnish composer Jean Sibelius. The design of the monument looks like organ pipes arranged in a wave-like pattern. Apart from the qualities and errors of the abstract art, it also sparked debate as the composer had created little music for organs. Hiltunen addressed her critics by adding the face of Sibelius which sits beside the main sculpture. Hiltunen's aim was to capture the essence of the music of Sibelius. There are a number of examples around the world, where, more than art, controversies have made monuments popular.

     We had lunch in an Indian restaurant, from where we were supposed to reach the cruise terminal. All of us were excited about an overnight cruise journey, which was maiden for many of us. Each setting was like that of any airport, except that we were going to board a cruise. Every one of us was curious to enjoy the sprawling decks, scenic surroundings and luxurious interiors. After due formalities of check-in and boarding, we moved to the top deck. All present cheered as the cruise blew horns, announcing the departure. Soon we were in the middle of the current. The blue water enchanted us with its shimmer. As the cruise sailed gracious and smooth, the water mesmerised us with its calmness. The only sounds which stirred the calmness were those of water scooters and seagulls. It was quite windy, and we had to wear jackets. We wanted to spend more time on the deck, but had to take refuge in the interiors, as we could no longer bear the cold winds. It was cosy inside, bustling with people. We bought ourselves coffee and some snacks, and began exploring various outlets. The shop line was extensive. Small cafeterias were elegant. We enjoyed a beautiful performance by a music band. All the performers sang beautifully and did not fail to impress us. The restaurant in which our dinner was arranged was roomy and filled with the unique aroma which began to tickle our taste buds at the entrance itself. Although the buffets were stacked with a variety of continental cuisines, it was a bit tough to decide what to pick for the platter, as several dishes were new to many of us. But, finally, every one of us could manage to fill our bellies sumptuously. After dinner, at around 10 at night, we reached the top deck once again to view the night sky. The sky was still glowing, but it was not as bright as the previous night in Helsinki because of clouds and rain. We wanted to watch the sunset, but we realised that it was not possible, as the sky was not going to be clear at least that night. We bid goodbye to the calm waters which had begun to hide behind the mist formed by the drizzle.

     It was indeed a tiring day, yet winning. The rocks of the Lutheran Church softened our stance, took us into history and once again taught us the lesson of oneness. The legacy of the music left behind by Jean Sibelius once again emerged as the winner in the conflict of art and ego. To conclude the chapter, the calm waters took us to an almost mystical state. Be it a spread-out sea, or an unbound desert, I often wonder about the secrets these entities probably nurture, which are unmistakably spellbinding.

(Silja Symphony Cruise, Helsinki)

(12 July, 2025)

(cont.)

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• मस्ला-ए-जंग

महज़ मुहरा हर सिपाही, बैन-उल-अक़्वामी सियासत का,

मायूस हुआ है शिकार मुद्दतों से, मुल्की दाँव-पेंचों का,

बेहिसाब बिखरी आबादी में, इल्म किसे चंद साँसें खोने का,

ग़ैरमहदूद फैले समंदर में, किसे है अफ़सोस बूँदों का.

(Select lines from my Hindi-Urdu poetry book)

(बैन-उल-अक़्वामी-international, सियासत-politics, इल्म-aware, ग़ैरमहदूद-unbound)

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# War, Peace

• युद्ध

सीमा सुशोभित होगी अस्त्रों से,

विनाश की आशा के खोखले नारों से,

रक्त की नदियाँ, लाशों का सागर बहेगा,

विनाश के पर्व का अंत, आरंभ भी वहीं से होगा।

(Select lines from my Hindi poetry book)

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# War, Peace

• Happiness

    “It’s a state of mind,” our Marathi teacher said while explaining a set of definitions of happiness. She remained our Marathi teacher during the entire high school period. Being a major language in our curriculum, we had to work extra for Marathi. The Marathi teacher also made sincere efforts to teach us the subject with similar zeal during every session. She was well read. Her vocabulary was comprehensive and the way of teaching was precise. She would elaborate even on a simple word, a short phrase or a minor theme. Many a time we got bored, but she never lost her patience as she knew the necessity of the detailed explanation. Even today, I can distinctly recollect her words. Every so often she used to say, “A human must treat a human like a human.” We did not understand the essence of her words at the tender age and often found them funny. Apart from details of the subject, Marathi lessons taught us some of the vital values of life too. I realised this as I grew up and came across a number of situations which narrated the same teachings. Happiness was one of the topics discussed at various levels during high school, particularly class 10. As I got enrolled in medical college and entered a domain of contest, I got practical lessons on some of the aspects of happiness which our Marathi teacher explained. Situations were diverse and so were our reactions. A few of us searched for happiness in creation, but many of us were happy to be admirers of those creations. Some colleagues found happiness in trivial occurrences, while a few of them remained unmoved even with the greatest achievements. A popular verse from ‘Manache Shlok’ by Saint Ramdas Swami says- “Who is the happiest of them all, only you can search for it for yourself, O my mind.” On introspection, one may realise that no one is wholly happy. Everyone seems to be continually searching for bigger and more than what is attained or received; often least realising that one can certainly try and find happiness in smaller or lesser accomplishments too.

    Apart from a state of mind, happiness is also about a way to look at things. Even with sincere and honest efforts, success or fulfillment may sometimes remain out of reach. Such circumstances leave us with no option than to accept the outcome and be content. During such situations, less pain or less dissatisfaction is often acknowledged as happiness. At times one expects more than what is deserved and feels unhappy when the prospects fall short. Usually, we don’t value or perceive things when they bless us with happiness in real time; we rudely overlook or ignore them. We may realize our errors and regret, but only when the moment is gone.

    It is true that many happy moments are hidden within material gain, yet they cannot match the joy of giving. The desire for worldly-wise pleasures is not inappropriate, but greed is. To overcome the state, several affluent families opt for philanthropy, which certainly adds to the happiness already acquired through materialism. Many well-to-do individuals practice a minimalist approach after attaining a certain altitude in personal or professional life. If compared with the present day, life in the olden days appears simple, humble, yet happy. With modernisation, the world has become self-centred. The modern world tends to amass pleasures, but seems to shed the ethos of sharing. The selfish view has parted us from our near and dear ones and friends. The digital revolution might have brought the world closer in technological terms, yet the warmth is missing.

    In an attempt to achieve more in a shorter span, the ambitious world forgets to take a break or enjoy some moments of leisure and usually finds itself lost and alone in distressing chaos. Recreation and rejuvenation are vital for refreshing our minds and for improved performance. One must draw a line to be content and experience true happiness.

It’s tough to eke out a living,

To punch a clock and survive,

But at the end of the day,

We feel contented to be able to thrive,

Some seek happiness naturally,

In whatever they have in their archive,

Some have no choice but to feel happy,

However hard be drive.

A longed-for happy moment,

May not be as blissful as projected,

Helping without your own interest,

May bring joy unexpected,

Situations may be similar,

Yet impressions of delight could be assorted,

Contentment needs to be perceived,

Happiness cannot be counted.

■ International Day of Happiness

(Select lines from my English poetry book)

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• मार्ग-दर्शन

यहाँ मिट्टी के, वहाँ पथरीले, कभी तुम श्यामल, कभी रुपहले,

कहीं घुमावदार, कहीं सरल तुम, मनोहर सब रूप तुम्हारे,

तुमने सुझाई, उसी तरह हुई, जीवन की हर यात्रा हमारी,

जीवन की हर एक मोड़ पर, सँवारा तुमने बनकर प्रहरी। १

तुम्हारे समक्ष हुआ कई बार, आक्रोश व अधिकार का हनन,

क्षणमात्र में बिखर गया सुराज्य, अनीति का हुआ प्रस्थापन,

मूक साक्षी तुम आंदोलन के, जिसने किया क्रांति का उद्दीपन,

तुम्हारी साक्ष से ही पुनः पुनः, अनीति का हुआ उच्चाटन। २

तुम भी नहाए हर्षित परिमल, किसीपर बरसे जो गौरव-सुमन,

भावुक भी हुए फूलों की वर्षा में, सुनकर अंतिम यात्रा के कथन,

गुलाल से सजे कपोल तुम्हारे, कहते विजय व सौहार्द के स्तवन,

कोई न जाने तुम्हारे भीतर बसे अनगिनत आख्यानों के कवन। ३

तुम भी अनायास हो आते हो तीरथ, पंथियों के चरण स्पर्श से,

तुम्हारा चित्त भी तन्मय करता, मृदंग मंजुल, ताशों का रव,

गुलाल सुमन के तुम्हारे परिधान भी, प्रतीत होते हैं भक्त से,

भक्त के माध्यम से तुम भी तो, प्रत्यक्ष दर्शन करते अनुभव। ४

तुम्हारी गोद में ही खेलकर, स्वच्छंद झूमा मेरा शैशव,

तुम भी जीते विभोर किशोर पल, मेरे यौवन ऊर्जित पल्लव,

अस्त के आरक्त क्षितिज की, सँवारी तुमने संध्या नीरव,

हर पड़ाव का अनूठा अनुभव, जीवन का है सार अभिनव। ५

ग्रीष्म में आम्रवृक्ष की छाया, वसंत में ओढ़ा था बौर तुमने,

आषाढ की सब करते याचना, तुम्हारे तप्त कण शांत करने,

सावन की झड़ी से सराबोर तन को, छेड़ा हेमंत के पतझड़ ने,

तीनों ऋतुओं के अमृत से, तृप्त किया है तुम्हें सृष्टि ने। ६

जब जब भटका मेरा विवेक, तुमने ही दिखाई राह पनघट की,

सावधान किया उचित मोड़ पर, वश में भी की गति आवेश की,

डगमगाने न दिया धैर्य को, निकट थी जब जब पूर्ति ध्येय की,

होने न दिया हावी अहंकार को, उत्तेजना में ध्येयप्राप्ति की। ७

तुम सदा रहते निडर, चाहे जीवनमार्ग में हो कुछ अघटित,

डगमगाता न तुम्हारा संयम, यात्रा की मोड़ोंपर अनपेक्षित,

न अप्रिय भूत से मायूस होते, न भविष्य की चिंता कर विचलित,

परिचय हो सादगी व सरलता का, वर्तमान को जीकर संतुलित। ८

(An adaptation of a poem from my Marathi poetry book)

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# Road, Path

• उल्फ़त

मुजस्सम हो जाती है उल्फ़त, तख़्लिया की झुकी पलकों में,

ग़ैरइख़्तियारी हो जाता है दमकना चश्म-ए-शब का,

उल्फ़त तो बस ही जाती है नशेमन-ए-दीदा में,

इश्क़ मुहताज नहीं होता मुलाक़ात-ओ-रू-ब-रू का.

(मुजस्सम-actual, चश्म-ए-शब-moon/eyes of the night, नशेमन-ए-दीदा-nest of the eyes, मुलाक़ात-ओ-रू-ब-रू-interaction and face to face)

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